Old Harrovian Johnny “the Fish” Ferrand clearly believes his role extends way beyond pulling pints or taking food orders: more often than not he can be found, glass of wine in hand, in animated conversation with his regulars, many of whom are racehorse trainers and jockeys.
Located two furlongs from junction 14 of the M4, this shabby roadside hostelry may look down at heel, but its proximity to Newbury racecourse makes it an essential pit stop for thirsty racegoers.
The shabby-chic bar is a smoky, hazy place, dominated by pictures of horses and riders and a table covered with copies of the Racing Post. A modest television is permanently tuned into racing — or cricket — and a small chalkboard underneath it boasts the “Landlord’s thought of the day”. On this visit the inscription was “Anything for a quiet wife”.
In the non-smoking dining room, a gallery of risqué cartoons by Oliver Preston amuses those customers enjoying the simple, unpretentious food and excellent wine.
Over a pint of perfectly kept Butts ale — brewed in Hungerford — you can tuck into enormous plates of warm, rare roast beef salad with horseradish-dressed green beans and hardboiled eggs, followed by a pear, apple and plum crumble.
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Like the convivial atmosphere of this most characterful of pubs, the food is bang on the money, although the size of the portions will make you very glad you’re not due for the jockey’s “weigh out” when you leave.
Sample meal
Beer-battered haddock and chips, £9.95; pear, apple and plum crumble with clotted cream, £5.50
The Pheasant Inn, Shefford Woodlands, Hungerford, Berkshire. Tel: 01488 648 284