The Michelin-starred Askham Hall may be the star attraction on the Lake District’s northeastern edge, but just up the road in the same village its sister property offers the same quick access to under-visited valleys and lofty moorland walks — along with lower room rates and a relaxed, elbows-on-the-table atmosphere. Yes, the bedrooms are sprinkled with heirlooms from the land-owning Lowther family, but you can also sup a pint beside a cracking fire in the bar, and gaze out onto tractors parked by the village shop. Despite its preternatural good looks, Askham is still a working community. This is your ringside seat.
Overall score 8/10
Main photo: the Queen’s Head is a great base for Lake District walks
Rooms and suites
Score 8/10
Of the pub’s six bedrooms, numbers three to six are the ones to target. Set under 17th-century eaves, they offer a surprising sense of space for a country pub and some magnificent pieces of furniture: none more so than in Room 3, whose superking bed sports four towering spiral posts and is flanked by kooky pineapple lamps. It also has a sofabed (useful for kids). Nearby, Room 4 is a family suite. All the bathrooms are enlivened by a spread of polychrome floor tiles and the irresistible smell of Bramley soaps. You might, however, want to bring earplugs — Askham’s farmers get off to an early start.
Food and drink
Score n/a
You’re only five minutes away from Richard Swale’s stellar kitchen at Askham Hall. At the Queen’s Head, however, dining is about to take a relaxed turn with the opening of a wood-fired pizza oven at Easter, accompanied by a light, snacky menu of cured hams, local cheeses and salads from the Hall’s kitchen garden. Given the popularity of the pizzas that used to be served down in Askham Hall’s stables, this is sure to bring the locals back in force. Its snug little bar, which has beers from the local Tirril Brewery on tap, will no doubt be buzzing again after an extended winter break.
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What else is there?
Score n/a
Yes, this is only a country pub — and a small one, at that — but just across the road lies the Health Barn, supported by Charles Lowther, the Queen’s Head’s co-owner. Among its many treatments are facials, reflexology, aromatherapy massages and Cumbria’s only flotation tank. Meanwhile, behind the pub you’ll find Askham’s public outdoor pool open (and heated) from May to September.
Where is it?
Score 9/10
Askham begins down by the River Lowther, where a bosky microclimate supports thick woodland and towering copper beeches. From there, it starts climbing, and doesn’t stop until it’s almost reached the moors. From the final farm, you get a Cinemascope view of the valley, before you leave the road — and keep going until you’re overlooking Ullswater. In every direction there are enticing Lake District walks, and you can hire bikes across the river at Lowther Castle, too. The castle itself is also worth a visit. These days the neo-gothic trophy home of the Lowthers is an almost-empty shell, but its once-famous gardens are being revived, and it shelters a sizeable adventure playground.
Sean Newsom was a guest of the Queen’s Head
Price B&B doubles from £160
Restaurant n/a
Family-friendly Y
Dog-friendly Y
Accessible Y (one room)
queensheadaskham.co.uk
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