THE DESIGNER GOES TO HENRY POOLE
Gerry McGovern, 48, design director for Range Rover and Land Rover “My dad used to take me to have my suits made at Burton when I was 14. Since then, I’ve bought all the big ready-to-wear labels, but I wanted something that really fitted and was a one-off, so I went to David. As a car designer, I am interested in shape and line, so it’s great to work with the cutter to create a look. As you get older, your tastes become more refined. I know what car I want, the house and the furniture, so why not how I want to look?”
David Ward, 33, senior cutter at Henry Poole “The last time Gerry came in for a fitting, he said, ‘I want these buttons half an inch higher.’ That’s the beauty of it — Gerry expects a certain silhouette, and he gets it. It’s not a block pattern. That’s the idiosyncrasy of having a suit made — it’s not just the tailor, it’s also the client telling us what they want. We made suits for Charles Dickens, Winston Churchill and Charles de Gaulle. Today, our customers range from extremely wealthy guys — men who have done the Guccis and the Pradas, and now want something else — to captains of industry and world leaders. We excel at the typically English, West End look with a nipped-in waist.”
From £2,284; 15 Savile Row, W1; 020 7734 5985, www.henrypoole.com
Advertisement
THE MEDIA MAN GOES TO TIMOTHY EVEREST
Stuart Husband, 41, journalist “Timothy Everest is a cross between a gentlemen’s club and a drinking den. It’s in an old house in Spitalfields, so it’s not a shopping experience at all, although it is conducive to spending money on things you never thought you needed, but suddenly can’t live without. Bespoke is like hard drugs: once you’ve sampled the real stuff, you can’t go back to anything else. Unlike narcotics, though, you can pay in instalments.”
Stuart Lamprell, 33, cutter at Timothy Everest “We get all types coming here, from 18-year-old pop stars to 70-year-old vicars. I think they enjoy our flexibility and the tranquil atmosphere. I’ve made Stuart’s suits for years — he comes in, hangs about, and I give him a bit of advice about women. It’s a bit like the old barber thing. If there is a house style, it’s a two-button jacket with a high-notched lapel, fitted but still quite relaxed — a bit like us. Tim Everest worked on Savile Row for Tommy Nutter ’ Abbey Road suits. Now we provide a full, handmade bespoke suit, crafted on the premises to Savile Row standards, but with a youthful edge.”
From £2,115; 32 Elder Street, E1; 020 7377 5770
THE CITY BOY GOES TO DEGE & SKINNER
Advertisement
Adrian Paine, 39, hedge-fund manager “I only do bespoke. Getting a ready-made suit that fits like a glove is virtually impossible. I like highly tailored suits with a defined waist, and Dege & Skinner does that very well indeed. I like meeting people in a relaxed and rather genteel atmosphere, and like the fact that it is a considered process. Robert knows me and exactly what I like, and the end result is extremely gratifying.”
Robert Bailey, 35, head cutter at Dege & Skinner “We get a lot of former military men, who want a very clean look, a lot of company directors, Middle Eastern royalty and a lot of slightly larger men, who need a strict line to knock off a few pounds. We’ll do anything our customers want, but we like waists and try to get as much as possible. Also, we like going slightly bigger on the chest and fuller over the hips. Our aim is to make a gentleman look like a gentleman. The thing about a Savile Row suit is that it is hand-crafted and stitched, and if you take care of it, it will last for 30 years. We have men coming in with suits to be repaired that were made in 1930.”
From £2,350; 10 Savile Row, W1; 020 7287 2941, www.degeandskinner.co.uk
THE MONEY MOGUL GOES TO GIEVES & HAWKES
Mark Kogan, 47, retired partner at Goldman Sachs “I am very particular, and as I’m not that tall, I decided to go to Gieves. Kathryn is a great listener. She can translate what I have in my mind into what I wear, and the execution is terrific. My advice to anyone getting a suit is do enough research to be able to walk in and be an educated customer. There’s no doubt that a bespoke suit is a wise investment. You will wear it for longer and people will comment on your appearance; and that’s worth the money.”
Advertisement
Kathryn Sargent, 30, cutter at Gieves & Hawkes “Savile Row isn’t as stuffy as it was when I started eight years ago. We’re getting a lot of new, younger, hipper customers, who in turn are attracting a new generation of trainee cutters and craftsmen. At Gieves, there is no distinct house style. We can do the traditional British Savile Row suit if need be, but we can also do a softer, looser suit. And, while we might advise you as to what would look good on your figure, or what cloth to try, we’ll bend over backwards to help you achieve exactly what you want.”
From £2,350 (men and women); 1 Savile Row, W1; 020 7434 2001, www.gievesandhawkes.com