In Hajjah, near the Saudi border and the edge of Yemen’s conflict zone, everyone carries an AK47. Men and boys alike wear random items of military gear, guns slung over their shoulders and balls of qat — a leaf chewed to produce an intoxicating effect — bulge from their cheeks.
Rural Yemeni society is so militarised, and the organisation of the army so informal, that it is impossible to tell exactly who is in the force. Even at checkpoints, identities are uncertain, and there is a risk the armed men who stop you may be members of the Huthi rebels movement, fighting an increasingly ferocious civil war.
The army is large, young, badly paid, chaotic — and said to be widely corrupt. Although the Huthi take part in a lucrative international arms smuggling route through the country, many of their weapons - which include anti-aircraft guns and heavy artillery - are said to be purchased from members of the Yemen army.
Like the Government, it gains much strength from the allegiance of tribal leaders and their militias; these often include children as young as 12. But allegiances change, and must be constantly bought with favours and cash.
Saudi Arabia has backed successive governments, but now its open involvement in the war reflects a lack of faith in the abilities of the army to defeat the Huthi. Privately, Western diplomats express deep concern over the Yemen Government’s indiscriminate air strikes and the ignorance among its raggle-taggle army of the rules of war.
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Saudis and Westerners know that if the Government becomes embroiled in a never-ending fight with insurgents, other countries in the region will pay the price. This is why they back the army.