It has survived German invasion, Soviet occupation and an influx of British stag parties — and that is just in the past 70 years of its history. Positioned at the heart of Europe, Prague has been at the centre of a number of key events in the Continent’s history, which makes it a fascinating place to visit.
After all, where else can you find the site of the most famous defenestration in history. The 17th-century ejection of two noblemen from a castle window that was instrumental in starting the Thirty Years War took place at Prague Castle, which remains the focal point of any tour of the history of the city. The castle contains palaces and ecclesiastical buildings of various architectural styles, from Roman-style buildings from the 10th century through Gothic modifications in the 14th. It is no simple monument though, as it still houses the offices of the Czech President.
Situated on a hill, the castle also affords magnificent views of a city that longs to be explored. Striding downhill, you arrive in the Mal? Strana, the picturesque “lesser town” which is anything but, before crossing the Charles Bridge, the bustling stone crossing point over the Vltava, replete with statues, artists and musicians. On the other side you soon reach the Old Town Square, a magnificent mix of architecture that takes in Gothic, Baroque and Romanesque styles. The Astronomical Clock in the Old Town Hall Tower, with Death tolling the bell, still manages to stand out.
From here the Old Town spreads out in a maze of narrow streets (the entire historic centre of Prague is a Unesco World Heritage site). They provide a great place just to wander around at your own leisure. It is quite easy to get lost — not that you should worry too much about finding your way back. The best thing to do is to step into one of the many bars.
If a tour of Prague will take you to a number of beautiful and interesting churches, it is the drinking establishments where you discover what the locals truly believe in. Both guides I had on a recent trip to the Czech Republic trotted out the same line: “Beer is the religion in this country”, and there are plenty of places to worship. Familiar names such as Budvar, Staropramen, Pilsner Urquell and Gambrinus abound, but there are many lesser-known brands to taste.
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One of the best places to do this is U Fleku. A brewery, beer hall and restaurant all in one, here is the chance to sample the beer at its source along with traditional Czech pork and duck dishes. As if to show that Prague caters for many tastes, the Old Town even has that strange hybrid, a Cuban-Irish bar, the cleverly titled O’Che’s.
None of this should give the impression that the locals are an uncouth bunch of drinkers — nothing could be further from the truth. This, after all, is the country that was guided out of Communist rule by the playwright V?clav Havel, and the National Theatre, situated on the river, is a fitting monument to the country’s cultural legacy. You may not be able to take in a performance but the building itself is a work of art, both inside and out.
For a short break, Prague offers a host of things to do — almost too much. We have yet to touch on Wenceslas Square, where you will find the city’s main shopping area, along with plenty of fancy restaurants, bars and hotels. Along with the Old Town Square, it also hosts Prague’s Easter markets, which are set up from March 20.
To get to the heart of the city, perhaps it is best to look to the river. A cruise down the Vltava is an ideal way to take in the sights and sounds of a fascinating place.
If time allows, Prague also provides a great starting point to explore more of Bohemia, such as the spa town Karlovy Vary or the unique Cesky Krumlov, another Unesco World Heritage Site in the south of the Czech Republic, where narrow, winding streets host a treasure trove of architectural surprises.
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Need to know
Currency Koruna (29 to £1)
Population 1.2 million
Area 496 sq km. Known as the city of a hundred spires, Prague is on the Vltava river in Central Bohemia
Top attractions Prague Castle deserves to be explored at length, in particular, St Vitus Cathedral
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Short breaks Prague is a city with a lot to see but so much of it is packed into the historic centre. Always busy, a visit early in the year could be ideal
Offer Three nights, 3*+ B&B, includes one free night, from £239pp. Phone 0844 879 8036