There’s something about the word “expedition”. It appeals to our inner thrill-seeker. It certainly sends a frisson of excitement through my three children — twins Nathalie and Gabriel, 14, and Hannah, 11 — when I tell them we’re doing one: an expedition voyage, to be precise.
It’s in Norway, the homeland of Roald Amundsen, first man to the South Pole, and the vessel is Hurtigruten’s MS Nordnorge. As it sets sail from Bergen, we watch alpine summits rise from deep fjords scattered with islands. The view can be admired from practically everywhere on the 623-passenger ship.
Thirty-six hours later, the expedition proper begins... with a crack. We’re trekking through boreal rainforest when my children find ice sheets and shatter them gleefully with their boots.
This is the first of a series of guided hikes — and mine are the only kids in our Anglo-German group of 20. Without our leaders, Bjorn and Svenja, we’d never have found this place. A short coach ride took us from Trondheim to the village of Trolla and the forest’s edge. My children aren’t hiking fans, but this they love: clambering over roots, jumping over streams and, finally, the view over a sun-kissed crystal-blue fjord. These expedition voyages were launched a year ago, and their mix of guided hikes and on-board lectures has proved so popular that Hurtigruten has just doubled the number of ships offering them to six.
Thanks to Bjorn and Svenja’s dry humour, the lectures so far (one about how fjords are created, another on Norwegian trivia) have been entertaining as well as informative. While they’re not designed for youngsters, mine have enjoyed them. They are also happy that the Nordnorge acts as a coastal ferry, stopping several times a day, often for just 15 minutes. As passengers and cargo are offloaded, we dash around fishing villages before hopping back on board.
Advertisement
As we head towards the top of Norway, the lush coastline morphs into jagged, snow-capped peaks. Once we’ve crossed the Arctic Circle, the mountains turn whiter still. At times the landscape appears monochrome — just snow and steely sea — but then the sun comes out and we’re sailing through a mystical sepia world. Photos don’t do it justice.
Adventure heightens on an icy, rocky ascent from Bodo to Mount Keiservarden. Bjorn apologises for not bringing snow spikes for our boots — it’s sunny April and the ice should have melted. Then another admission: “We’re lost.”
“We’re lost” travels through the group like a Chinese whisper. My children worry that the encircling peaks look identical. Will we be found? Will the ship leave without us? A trudge across a plateau, a steep climb and, phew, Bjorn says we’re back on track. Heartbeats return to normal and we toast our efforts with flask teas and coffees. “This is cool,” Gabriel says, shelving his teenage nonchalance, as we descend the stairs made from rocks (and built by Sherpas) that we should have climbed up.
That afternoon’s lecture is, fittingly, about polar expeditions. We learn that members of the first one to the North Pole avoided scurvy by eating raw polar bear meat. My brood’s answer to scurvy is more palatable — they line up shot glasses filled with berry smoothies at breakfast and down them like tequila.
Other meals include fresh local salmon, prawns, crab, roasts and reindeer. We take two of the optional excursions, dog-sledding and a snowmobile safari. While both are fun, they feel more commercialised than the hikes. Now that we’ve been off the beaten track in Arctic wilderness, nothing less will do.
Advertisement
Our final hike starts in Norway’s most northerly city, Honningsvag, which is on a latitude with northern Alaska. Snow spikes are obligatory for a cheek-burning, lung-busting ascent through thigh-high white powder to the summit of Mount Storefjell. Once there, we feel on top of the world.
The voyage finishes the next morning in Kirkenes, 10 miles from the Russian border, and in the same way as it started... with a crack. The Nordnorge has to break through the ice to get there.
Our expedition exceeded expectations. I fear it’s ruined us, though. In future, a regular “holiday” just won’t do.
Three more family expeditions
Inner Hebrides
Kids will love the Swallows and Amazons feel of the 10-passenger Elizabeth G as she sails the Inner Hebrides in the wake of dolphins and whales. Expedition hikes are all part of the fun. Four all-inclusive nights start at £695pp, departing from Oban (hebridescruises.co.uk).
Advertisement
Croatia
There’s nothing wrong with a spot of luxury on an expedition. The new 36-passenger Avangard offers just that on this Adriatic island hop, with adventures including a hike to Mljet National Park. Eight all-inclusive days start at £1,360pp, departing from Split (adventuresmithexplorations.com).
Washington State
The San Juan Islands, near Seattle, are ripe for exploration, and the Wilderness Discoverer is the perfect vessel for it. Launch paddleboards or skiffs from its platform, take rainforest hikes and enjoy beach barbecues. Seven all-inclusive nights start at £10,595 for a family of three, with a further three nights in Seattle (mundyadventures.co.uk).
The Kessels were guests of Hurtigruten. A six-day Norwegian Coastal Expedition starts at £674 for adults and £506 for children, full-board. Flights to Bergen and back from Kirkenes start at £395/£295. Expert-led hiking trips are available from about £100pp (hurtigruten.co.uk)