Jerez, Spain
Waitrose, £4.59
An odd one, being a 15-per-cent fortified moscatel from the Jerez region of southern Spain, made by one of the best-known sherry producers, Emilio Lustau, and coming entirely from their Las Cruces vineyard in Chipiona, hence its title. Every summer, I am keen to expand my repertoire of sub-£5 sweet wines, and this bold, earthy, marmalade and sherbet dab-licked Spanish white, best served with fresh fruit tarts and the like, gets my vote this year. Watch out, though, pudding wines such as this are more alcoholic than dry table wines. Still, at 15 per cent, it is light enough for fresh berries, but punchy enough to make its point.