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Mauritius: The generation game

Mauritius's colonial heritage is uniquely fascinating ­ but teenagers prefer the quad biking. By Christine Toomey

But then the Heritage Golf and Spa Resort, nestled in the Bel Ombre nature reserve on the southwest coast of Mauritius, is not the place to go if you are not in search of warm hospitality. This small island off the east coast of Africa prides itself on offering visitors almost unequalled standards of service. The girls, it must be said, quickly learnt to appreciate the attraction of such a boast.

In choosing a destination, I had not let on to either my daughter or her cousin that, to get a break from the parental taxi service they take for granted at weekends, my priority had been to find somewhere with a limited nightlife. If there was enough to do during the day, I hoped they might take up the neglected pastime of simply enjoying each other's company. This is where the all-inclusive package on offer at the Heritage came into its own. Ordering room service at any time of the day or night never lost its appeal for the girls. Together with all meals and drinks in a range of restaurants and bars, plus extensive sports activities, 24-hour room service is included in the hotel's unusual "premium" package.

This left my evenings free for reading by the villa's candlelit private pool. During the day there were expeditions into the Valriche area of the tropical Bel Ombre reserve located within what was once a vast sugar estate. These could be taken on foot or by quad bike; the girls chose the latter. There was also a visit to a tea plantation, another to the capital of Port Louis, and a day trip to a tiny island called Ile aux Cerfs by sail boat, aboard which gourmet food was served. The high standard of cuisine is just one of the legacies of the island's complex colonial history.

Though early Arab traders called the then uninhabited island Dina Arobi, or Isle of Desolation, Mauritius eventually became a stopover on the spice route to India, settled first by the Dutch, then the French and eventually the British. When the British took control during the Napoleonic wars, they allowed the Franco-Mauritians to retain their language, legal system and the running of the sugar plantations. So although the official language of Mauritius, independent since 1968, is English, French influence remains strong.

Together with the Creole culture from the slaves brought from Africa by the Dutch, and the island's distinct Indian flavour due to the Indian labourers brought later by the British, it is a rich mix, giving Mauritius a multicultural air. This was highlighted when we moved from the Heritage - decorated with African artefacts - to the Taj Exotica Resort & Spa, which combines traditional Indian design with chic modernity.

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The treatments, yoga and meditation on offer were enough to make me abandon my poolside reading and indulge in full-time pampering. For me it was the tranquillity of Mauritius, combined with its gorgeous food, that topped my list of holiday highlights. But when I asked the girls to draw up their own, they wrote down "quad biking", "boat trip" and "amazing service by nice staff". The only problem is that they expect the luxury of "amazing service by nice staff" to continue once they are back in their own homes.

How to get there

Taj Exotica Resort & Spa and Heritage Golf and Spa Resort can both be booked with Cazenove + Loyd, 020 7384 2332