MEAT AND GREET
Warning: vegetarians might want to look away. I've been having rather a meaty time of late. I only have to think about North Ronaldsay lamb and I start salivating. The native sheep of Orkney's most northerly island are confined to the seashore by a stone wall, so they survive almost entirely on seaweed. This gives intensely savoury, dark, gamey meat - I devoured two chops before I even got them to the table.
Another recent highlight was rare-breed white park beef from Bickleigh, in Devon.
It is grass-reared to 30 months (compared with a UK average of 24), which results in an amazing texture and depth of flavour.
Currently top of my drool list, however, is offal. It is plate-lickingly delicious. I wonder why so many of us have lost touch with our inner innard-lover. Our squeamishness means an edible fifth of most animals is simply thrown away, which is a terrible waste. This year, give tripe and heart, tongues and kidneys another go.
Advertisement
Okay, veggies can look again now.
North Ronaldsay lamb, from £7.50 for a shank (Nov-Mar); www.orkneysbest.co.uk. Bickleigh beef, from £6.99 per kg, from Selfridges; 0800 123400
JUST THE TONIC
As a concession to my growing waistline, I have started making my G&Ts with Fever-Tree Naturally Light Tonic Water. The latest addition to this brilliant mixer range balances the astringent bitterness of top-quality quinine with Sicilian lemon oil and natural fruit sugars, so there is none of the cloying chemical sweetness you get with most low-calorie drinks. £2.99 for four 200ml bottles, from Waitrose, Oddbins, Majestic and off-licences; www.fever-tree.com
Advertisement
KUNG HEY FAT CHOI
The Chinese New Year starts on Thursday. It's traditional to have a big feast the night before. So get ready to wok!
TAKE 3
Richard Hughes, the head chef of Gascoyne Place in Bath, suggests this simple partner for cold meats and sausages.
6 red onions, chopped
200g unrefined dark brown sugar (preferably muscovado)
50ml balsamic vinegar
Advertisement
Cook the onions with butter or oil until soft and caramelised. Add the sugar and cook on a low heat for 3 minutes until dissolved. Add the balsamic vinegar and bubble until reduced to a sticky consistency. Leave to cool and store in an airtight container for up to three months.
Gascoyne Place, 1 Sawclose, Bath; 01225 445854, www.gascoyneplace.co.uk