What the new producers gave, apart from a kick where it was needed, were new styles, most notably darker, fuller-bodied, almost red rosés, and a greater emphasis on rosé-friendly grape varieties such as cabernet, syrah and grenache. Mind you, it was the least the United States could do after California had spawned one of the nastiest of all rosé types: medium-sweet white (sic) zinfandels and blush wines.
I do have one bone to pick, at least with some new-world producers. Some make their rosés distinctly sweet, yet the labels make no mention of it. Medium-dry, medium-sweet and sweet are unfashionable phrases, but that is no excuse. So, greater transparency, please.
CELLAR NOTES
2003 Torres San Medin Cabernet Sauvignon Rosé, £5.49
Enticing, lively, mulberry- flavoured Chilean pink (Sainsbury’s).
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2003 Forrest Estate Rosé, £7.54
NZ cabernet-merlot-pinot noir blend — vibrant, spicy cassis and strawberry flavours (Adnams, 01502 727222).
2003 Mount Hurtle Grenache Rosé, £5.99
Ebullient, full-bodied Oz rosé with 14% alcohol (Oddbins).
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WINE BLUFF
"Sales of rosé in the UK went up 27% last year"
Anorak fact: rosé now accounts for 10% of the UK wine market, twice as much as in the late 1990s.