There is lots of semillon in Australia and it has a long history, but many UK consumers view it as nothing more than a poor relation of chardonnay — a useful adjunct when chardonnay is in short supply. This is unfair: semillon has a life of its own, with distinct regional styles and different wine-making effects.
Traditional Hunter Valley semillon is unique in the world. It starts out sharp and light and becomes seductively toasty and honeyed with age. Barossa semillon is fatter — like lemon curd — and can be rich and oaky, or unoaked, such as the appetising, lemony Peter Lehmann Semillon (widely available, £5.99). Western Australian semillon is more herbal, like sauvignon, with which it is often blended.
CELLAR NOTES
2004 Grant Burge Zerk Old Vine Semillon, £7.98
Creamy, lemony, oak-aged Barossa semillon (selected Asda).
1997 Tyrrell’s Vat 1 Semillon, £22-£24.95
Classic mature Hunter — toast, wheat and honey flavours (Selfridges, 0870 837 7377; Harvey Nichols, 020 7235 5000; Robersons, 020 7371 2121).
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2002 Voyager Estate Semillon, £11.49
Intense, herbal, spicy, nutty Margaret River semillon (Oddbins).
WINE BLUFF
"Semillon is th main grape of Sauternes"
Anorak fact: it never appears on the label, but semillon is the pricipal variety behind the famous sweet whites of Sauternes