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Joanna Simon

This is because the Chileans have been pushing out in all directions, planting vineyards in new and cooler areas (such as Leyda, San Antonio, Limari, Elqui Valley and Bio-Bio) and matching grape varieties to soils and climate instead of just planting what they fancy. It’s also because they have escaped the stranglehold of the big four grape varieties, adding syrah, pinot noir, viognier, riesling and gewürztraminer to the cabernet, merlot, chardonnay and sauvignon mix. The wines below give a flavour of the new Chile.

CELLAR NOTES

2005 Cono Sur Single Vineyard Quitralman Riesling, £7.99
Intense, zesty dry riesling: appley, floral, lightly spicy (Majestic).

2004 Viña Falernia Alta Tierra Syrah, £7.49
Fresh, supple, plummy, peppery red (Sunday Times Wine Club; 0870 220 0010).

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2004 Anakena Single Vineyard Viognier, £8.49
Full, peachy, creamy and fresh (Wine Rack, Thresher; three for two, £5.66).

WINE BLUFF

"2% of Chile's vineyards are certified organic"

Anorak fact: Chile also has the biggest self-contained biodynamic estate in the new world.