Instant Escapes: Kefallonia

Assos, a tiny unspoiled fishing village some 36km from Fiskardo, is the place that time – and tourists – forgot. The setting is exquisite – a jumble of ice-cream-coloured houses clinging to a narrow isthmus that connects the village to a wooded peninsula topped by a Venetian fortress. Sip a beer at the rustic Sea Side Café, right next to the beach, and watch the water lapping like lace around the pebbles.

The startling crescent of Myrtos Beach, a 15-minute drive from Assos, is said to be the most-photographed sandy stretch in Greece. One glimpse of its peacock-blue waters and the perfect half-moon of white shingle fanning out from the base of dramatic limestone cliffs, and it’s easy to see why. Famous as a location in Captain Corelli’s Mandolin, Myrtos is no longer a secret – so visit early morning or at sunset to get it to yourself.

Head inland for one of Kefallonia’s quirkiest attractions – the ancient underground cave known as Drogarati (‘home of the dragon’; £4). It could almost be by Barcelona architect Gaudí – a subterranean cathedral-cum-fairy grotto, where multi-coloured stalagmites and stalactites ascend and descend like rusting organ-pipes. Maria Callas gave a recital here in 1963, when it was first opened to the public.

For another fix of below-ground magic, let a ferryman row you through the eerie silence of nearby Melissani Lake, set in the basin of a cave. A section of the roof has collapsed over time, and a pool of sunlight streams in to expose an iridescent sphere of turquoise water. As your boat pulls away, the waters darken amid folds of rock crusted with algae.

Back up top, re-adjust to the sunshine and take a short drive to the port of Sami. It has a spectacular beach – Antisamos – ringed by tall pine forest and backed by olive groves, where brown-skinned Kefallonian goats graze placidly in the shade. Find your own shelter, under the awnings of stylish beach bar and restaurant Mojito. Now relax…

The ultimate in tranquillity? Head for the monastery of Agiou Gerasimou (now a convent), a peaceful retreat set in gorgeous gardens echoing with birdsong. On the way home, take a detour to the ruins of Agios Georgios Castle. Visit the flower-filled cafe To Kastro (00 30 26710 69367), and tuck into home-made carrot cake (£3) as butterflies skim around you like rose-petals.

Where to stay

Nitsa (Fiskardo; 00 30 26740 41327). This pretty white guesthouse is up a stairway one block back from Fiskardo’s harbourfront. Look out for clouds of bougainvillea and a dinky little terrace with wooden furniture painted Barbie pink. Doubles from £43, room only.

Museum Hotel George Molfetas (Farakalata; 00 30 26710 84007, www.georgemolfetas.com). An elegant 1895 stone mansion in the timeless hillside village of Faraklata, this hotel is packed with antiquities and works of art. It’s run by the great-niece of the 19th-century satirical poet George Molfetas, who published a weekly newspaper of life in Kefallonia. Doubles from £95, B&B.

Emelisse Hotel (Emblissi Bay, Fiskardo; 00 30 26740 41200, www.arthotel.gr/emelisse). Gaze at the stars from the candlelit terraces of this chic boutique hotel, set amid cypress and cedar woods overlooking Emblissi Bay. Views are incredible, and a delightful pebbled beach is only moments away. Seaview doubles from £126, B&B.

Vigli Retreat (Vigli). Wake to the clanking of goat bells in this stunning 200-year-old cottage in the secluded hamlet of Vigli, a 15-minute drive from Fiskardo. Light and airy, with stylish decor and a swimming pool, it makes for a plush, get-away-from-it-all escape. Book through Unique Villas (020 7183 5383, www.uniquevillaskefalonia.co.uk), from £130pp per week, based on four sharing.

Braunis Horio (Assos; 00 30 26710 42365, www.braunishorio.com) is the top location in Assos, an exclusive hillside complex of 10 two- and three-bedroom villas, all with private swimming pools and panoramic views of the harbour and fabulous fortress. Book direct from £225pp per week, based on six sharing.

Cavos Inn (Assos; 00 30 26740 51564). This delightful nine-room pension is family-run by Vasso and Vassilis and has tastefully furnished rooms, many with impressive sea views. Book through Ionian & Aegean Island Holidays (020 8459 0777, www.ionianislandholidays.com). Doubles from £569pp per week, B&B, inclusive of flights from Gatwick or Manchester and car hire.

Where to eat

Spiaggia Taverna (Agia Nikolaos; 00 30 69776 31053, www.vatsa.gr). This lovely beachside taverna is set in pristine Vatsa Bay and is a real favourite among islanders as well as in-the-knows. At the mouth of a river, it’s a special place on Kefallonia, where fresh water meets sea water. Spyros and his English wife, Carol, serve amazing fish, alongside home-grown fruit and vegetables. Mains around £6.

Odisseas Taverna (Agia Ierousalim; 00 30 26740 41133). A stone’s throw from an idyllic hideaway beach, this is the quintessential family-run Greek taverna. There’s no menu – just go into the kitchen and see what Odisseas’s mum is cooking. There’s also a counter where she sells her fantastic home-made jams and preserves. Mains around £7.

Nefeli-Anait Restaurant (Assos; 00 30 69743 94100). This charming waterfront restaurant is run by Andonis, a former seaman, and his family. Kleftiko (slow-roasted lamb wrapped in foil) is a house speciality. Veggies should try the saganaki (fried cheese) and delicious tomato croquettes. Mains around £9.

Platanos (Assos). This popular taverna is an institution and the oldest restaurant in Assos, sprawled under the plane tree from which it takes its name, What better place to devour the island’s speciality kreatopita (Kefallonian meat pie) – a jumble of assorted meats and rice, wrapped in a special pastry. Mains around £9.

Café Tselenti (Fiskardo; 00 30 26740 41344). Housed in a 19th-century mansion, Tselenti has the loveliest restaurant interior in Fiskardo – high-ceilinged, with wooden pillars and ornate mirrors. The cuisine is light and modern. Try the swordfish in green apple and calvados sauce – it’s utterly delicious. Mains around £12.

Tassia’s Restaurant (Fiskardo; 00 30 26740 41205, www.tassia.gr). A discreet wall of press cuttings celebrates the fact that this restaurant’s owner, Tassia Dendrinou, is a well-known TV chef. Settle in at one of the elegant blue tables on the waterfront, with her signature dishes of fried rock fish or lamb logato, a moreish stew made with mustard and wine. Mains around £15.

Melissani Lake, set in the basin of a cave (4Corners)

Nightlife

Theodora’s Café and Cocktail Bar (Fiskardo). This bright-blue corner-building has splendid views over the quayside. Sip a sundowner on the upstairs balcony and watch merry yachties as they quaff Champagne on deck.

North (Assos). Perched on Assos’s northern hillside, this bar-restaurant is a splendid ‘ooh-aah’ point for smoky-pink Kefallonian sunsets. On Thursday and Sunday evenings, when there’s live music, even sleepy Assos starts to hop.

Shopping

Tselentis (Fiskardo). This bakery has been around since 1925, selling mouthwatering speciality breads, cakes and savouries, all made on the premises. Try its sourdough bread, or push the boat out with a breakfast brioche stuffed with cream and raisins (£1.60).

Volente Voltera (Agios Georgios Castle). Natasha sells upmarket casual clothing and retro bric-a-brac, alongside original high-quality jewellery made by herself and a local silversmith.

Ask a local

Christos Danopoulos is a fisherman, and has lived and worked in Fiskardo for about 27 years

‘For me, the real joy of Kefallonia is the water and the wildlife. We have rare monk seals and turtles that hide away in wonderful bays and coves easily discoverable by boat. Row into Dafnoudi and you’ll see a lovely cave on your left – the bedding in the pebbles will show you where the seals have been snoozing.

For children, especially, there’s nothing more thrilling than snorkelling and diving. Jamie Stirling, a marine biologist from England, has run fantastic ‘Marine Adventure’ family days out on his caique for the past nine years (£47 adults, £34 children; www.ioniandiscoveries.com). And the sunsets in this part of the island are second-to-none. A favourite spot of mine is Alaties. There’s a little taverna there, where you can watch the sun go down over the water with a glass of local Robola wine.’

Go independent
Thomas Cook (0871 230 2406, www.flythomascook.com) flies to Kefallonia from six UK airports, including Gatwick, Birmingham and Manchester, from £219 return. Thomson Airways (0871 231 4787, www.thomsonfly.com) has flights from Gatwick, Luton, Stansted, Bristol, Cardiff, Newcastle and Manchester, from £247 return.

Go packaged
Ionian Island Holidays (020 8459 0777, www.ionianislandholidays.com) has excellent accommodation in the quieter resorts, including luxury villas. A week in gorgeous Talenti’s House, right on the waterfront in Fiskardo, costs from £599pp, based on six sharing, and including flights and transfers from London or Manchester. Greek Islands Club (020 8232 9780, www.greekislandsclub.com) also offers attractive properties in the Fiskardo region, with a week in the Waterfront Apartments in Fiskardo from £645pp, based on four sharing, and including flights and transfers from London or Manchester.

Further information
The Kefallonian tourist office is in Argostoli (00 30 26710 22248; check opening times).