Celeriac is the root of the celery plant and an underrated vegetable. It tastes a little like parsnip, but with the flavour of celery running through it and, like parsnip, is good raw. The French cottoned on to this a long time ago when they came up with the classic celeriac remoulade, a delicious concoction of matchstick size slithers of celeriac tossed in crème fraîche and mustard and served on a plate of Bayonne ham. It’s an upmarket take on coleslaw and delicious with the addition of an English eating apple.
Slice off the roots and the skin with a large chopping knife and sprinkle with lemon juice if you are cutting it in advance because it discolours on contact with air. Shave peelings of celeriac, carrot and parsnip as a base to a sophisticated Thai winter salad and toss in a dressing of chilli, palm sugar, peanuts, lime and coriander root. Delicious served with chargrilled scallops or tiger prawns.
Celeriac is also delightful cooked. Use it in gratins, layering with potatoes and sprinkling with lemon juice, to give added zest to the dish. Or boil it until tender and mash with masses of Maldon salt, pepper, crème fraîche and Dijon mustard — a great alternative to your everyday potato mash and good with game.
It is also yummy roast in goose fat and it makes great chips. For a de luxe vegetable dish, try sweating chunks of it for 20 minutes in extra virgin olive oil, lemon juice and crushed coriander seed.
In the cookbook: Celeriac sautéed with lentils and walnut oil in The Cook’s Companion, by Stephanie Alexander, Penguin, £35
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On the menu: Skye Gyngell cooks celeriac remoulade with Parma ham at Petersham Nurseries, Petersham, Surrey (020-8605 3627)