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BEAUTY

How to make your skin sheen not shine

Aiming for a dewy complexion but end up with super-shiny and (whisper it) sweaty-looking skin? We speak to the experts about achieving that perfect glow

GETTY IMAGES
The Sunday Times

Glowy skin is always the goal, but if you’re too heavy-handed with the highlighter your face can end up looking more Tin Man than JLo. “The difference between achieving a natural, healthy sheen as opposed to an artificial, metallic-looking shine is often the level of pigment in the product you’re using,” says celebrity make-up artist Neil Young. “Products that tend to illuminate skin and pull light organically to the face have a lower level of pearl in them and much smaller particles.”

So, how to achieve the look? The pros agree that there’s a fine line between a gorgeous film-star sheen and the type of sweaty shine you get after 20 minutes on the dancefloor. But with the right formulas and strategic application, you can get a radiant lit-from-within glow, perfect for the party season.

Big balm energy

If you want something easy and low maintenance, these balms are cleverly formulated for a barely there glow.

The holiday glow

Jones Road Miracle Balm, £34
Think of this as fresh, glowing, “just come back from holiday” skin in a pot. Apply the neutral shade Au Naturel straight on to clean skin for an all-over subtle, natural sheen, or try Magic Hour and Dusty Rose on the cheeks to bronze and blush. Warm the balm between the fingers to soften and then apply with your fingertips.

The all-rounder

Honest Beauty Magic Beauty Balm, £16
If you find highlighters too glitzy but want to wake up your skin a bit, you won’t find a more natural-looking highlighter than this versatile balm. It can be used for almost anything, including hydrating lips and areas of dry skin — its blend of shea butter and argan oil makes it ultra-nourishing — but it’s best dabbed across the cheekbones, bridge of the nose and brow bone for a dewy glow.

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The cheekbone enhancer

Sculpted by Aimee Cream Luxe Glow Highlight, £16
This cream is like a glaze for your face, so tap it on to the tops of the cheekbones; across the brow bone and around the tear duct for an eye-opening effect; down the centre of the nose — and then pat what’s left on your finger along your Cupid’s bow.

A luminescent base

Whether it’s a moisturising primer or a radiant foundation, your choice of base is key for a healthy glow.

The primer

Mac Strobe Cream, £26
This is Young’s go-to product for luminescent skin. It has iridescent (not disco ball) particles to brighten the complexion and also works as a moisturiser. How to use it? Squeeze on to your fingertips and massage into the face and neck after cleansing. For more mature or slightly sallow skin, Young recommends the Pinklite shade to put a flushed rosiness back into your complexion.

The foundation

Givenchy Prisme Libre Skin-Caring Glow foundation, £40
If you still want to glow but need that extra bit of coverage, this foundation fuses make-up with skincare to hydrate and give a luminous finish.

The tinted moisturiser

BareMinerals Complexion Rescue Tinted Hydrating Gel Cream, £30
If you’re not into full-on foundation but want a little bit of coverage and added dewiness, this is for you. The lightweight, gel-cream texture gives skin a juicy, glowy finish without any unnecessary shine. Use a pea-sized amount and blend in with your usual foundation brush. Continue to layer on if you want more coverage.

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Tip Be wary of finishing powders. Overpowdering the face will cancel out the luminosity of other products. Young says if you are applying a powder, “do it strategically by avoiding any areas where you would usually apply highlighter, such as the cheekbones, bridge of the nose and the chin”. Instead lightly apply finishing powder to the areas where sweat and shine gather, such as the upper lip, chin and T-zone.

A healthy flush

Skip the dull, matte textures and opt for a sheer, light-reflecting liquid blush for a glowy splash of radiance.

For an instant pick-me-up

Trinny London Flush Blush, £20
Want a post-workout glow without exercising? This easy-to-blend blush makes you look instantly healthier with an understated, effortless glow. Dab on to the apples of your cheeks with fingers and blend.

For everyday glow

Iconic London Sheer Blush, £18
This liquid blush doesn’t contain any pearl particles making it perfect for those who want radiance but are wary of glitter. The pigment builds easily, so you can go as sheer or bold as you like. Apply with your fingers or blend with a flat stippling brush.

The hybrid blush

Charlotte Tilbury Glowgasm Beauty Light Wand in Pinkgasm, £29
Think of this as an airbrush version of the flush you get after your first glass of champagne at a party. This blush and highlighter in one softens into a light-catching dew as you blend it on to cheeks.

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Tip Don’t mix liquid and powder. “The rule is, if you’re applying anything liquid or cream-based first, try to stick to those textures with the rest of your make-up,” Young says. “If you are using a powder product such as a bronzer, that should go on last to avoid patchiness.”

The head-to-toe light catchers

Try these products for an easy, all-over glow.

The make-up artist’s secret trick

Egyptian Magic All Purpose Skin Cream, £29
According to Young, this one-pot wonder is many a top make-up artist’s secret weapon to get that ethereal glow you see on the red carpet or catwalk. Although it’s a moisturiser, Young loves to use it as a highlighter, “as hydrating ingredients such as olive oil and beeswax make it beautiful for hitting the higher planes of the face”. Use on areas such as the brow bone, collarbone and limbs.

The body glow

Proshine High Shine Solid Body Oil, £30
Developed by make-up artist Ciara O’Shea, this easy-to-use, no-fuss highlighting stick is supercharged with hydrating ingredients including soy wax, shea butter, mango butter and more. It’s designed for use on the body, so swipe across the collarbone and shoulders for added glam. For the face, apply to your index finger and lightly tap on to the tops of the cheeks and brow bone.

For finishing touches

Valentino Beauty V-Lighter, £46
The light-reflecting micro-pearl particles in this luminiser are ultra-fine, so you get a diffused, natural radiance rather than glittery shine. Lightly tap on to areas you want to emphasise such as the cheekbones and the inner corners of your eyes.

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Tip If you want to make a pigmented highlighter more subtle, use less product and a soft brush with longer hair, such as the Beauty Pie Soft Highlighting Powder Brush (£25 or £6 for members). The bigger the brush and the longer the brush hairs, the sheerer the product will look.

@roisinkatekelly