Duncan Carmichael
A medical doctor for 25 years, founder of the Institute of Healthy Ageing and author of Younger for Longer
Fine lines on the face happen to all of us and are generally the first signs that we are losing our skin elasticity and starting to age. These can be reversed with some work to stimulate and wake up the skin. The easiest thing for us to do is to apply the vitamin skin creams that have been proven to induce new collagen formation in the skin. There are plenty of creams that will hydrate our skins and make the appearance of wrinkles look plumped up for a few hours, but very few that will actually reverse the ageing process in the skin.
There are a couple of vitamins that, if applied to the skin, have been proven to stimulate collagen, the scaffolding of the skin, to reverse the fine lines and sagging that we get as we age. CE Ferulic serum from Skinceuticals is one such product. It contains high-quality vitamin C along with some assistants that enhance its action. Vitamin C will then boost collagen production and decrease the effects of sun damage.
Vitamin A or retinol is the other ingredient that has a long track record of stimulating skin collagen and reversing the effects of akin ageing. There are quite a few companies that supply a good quality retinol product including Retinol 0.3 by Skinceuticals and Rejuvoderm by RégimA. These are creams that we should get into the habit of using daily. Rather like the benefits to our muscles of exercising every day, our skin does best if we use these creams regularly.
After this very good start of rejuvenating our skin, we could consider gentle skin peels (for example, those by Mesoestetic), which accelerate skin cell turnover and so rejuvenate the skin.
Lastly, needle the skin. Derma rollers have multiple tiny needles on them that make multiple micro punctures as they roll across the skin. This causes the skin to send out messengers that will initiate the skin rebuilding process. A visit to a good quality salon or clinic will use a combination of all of the above to wake our skins up and get that youthful glow back into our faces.
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Dr Anjali Mahto
Consultant dermatologist, dranjalimahto.co.uk
As skin ages, there is a reduction in the number and size of skin cells. It functions less effectively as a protective barrier, temperature regulation is less efficient and there is a decline in the production of sweat, sebum (oil) and vitamin D.
The skin becomes increasingly thin over time due to a steady reduction in collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid (it’s commonly quoted that collagen production in the skin falls by 1 per cent per year after the age of 20). Cells turn over less quickly and wound healing is relatively impaired. To the external observer, these changes become apparent as dry skin, fine lines, deep furrows and wrinkles. Skin starts to sag as it loses support and textural changes occur.
Retinoids are a group of vitamin A compounds that boost your skin’s collagen and elastin production as well as increasing skin cell turnover. When you first use these treatments, it’s very common for skin irritation and redness to occur, so I usually recommend that treatment needs to be built up gradually. Start with a couple of applications a week before building up to daily usage.
Retinoids should be applied at night to clean skin. Sun protection must be worn in the day because the creams can cause sensitivity to sunlight. Some recommended products for purchase include Medik8’s Crystal Retinal and NeoStrata’s Skin Active Retinol + NAG Complex.
Botox is perhaps the most obvious clinical choice — it is a synthetically made protein that is injected most commonly into the forehead, frown and eye area to treat wrinkles and lines at these sites. Its most basic action is to block nerve transmission to muscles causing temporary weakness. Wrinkles and lines become smoother or disappear altogether as a consequence.
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Botox treatment will produce results that are simply not possible with creams. I’ve had it done a few times myself to treat very early frown lines (for which it’s super-effective) and found it quick and painless.
Natali Kelly
Aesthetic practitioner specialising in cosmetic dermatology
When we smile, laugh, frown or cry our muscles cause the skin to crease. Over time, these crease lines become deeper and more defined. One of my favourite treatments is the Aquagold Facial, a bespoke skin rejuvenation treatment using a cocktail of ingredients micro-infused directly into the skin with little to no discomfort. The Aquagold device infuses the skin with a blend of active ingredients by creating tiny “micro-channels” in the skin via gold-plated super-fine micro-needles.
We also carry out effective medical-grade chemical peels that can improve overall tone and texture, including the Perfect Peel (theperfectpeel.co.uk), a five-acid blended peel that can be used on all skin types to transform the skin, making it look younger, healthier and clearer in just one week. This peel contains super-antioxidant glutathione and retinol, which offer skin-resurfacing and brightening benefits.
Other products that combat fine lines and wrinkles include the ZO Skin Health Daily Power Defense, a lightweight serum that helps to tighten and firm the skin. In addition to buying the products and undergoing anti-wrinkle treatments, however, I would always advise my clients to wear an SPF at all times, stay hydrated, don’t smoke and eat a vitamin-rich diet.
Dr Tijion Esho
Founder of Esho Clinics and resident cosmetic doctor on BBC Morning Live
It comes as a surprise to most that the ageing process starts in our mid-twenties. This process can be accelerated due to lifestyle choices such as excessive alcohol use. The result is the formation of static fine lines and wrinkles (these are ones that are still present even when facial muscles are at rest).
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There are different ways to approach these. It’s important to have a good skin regimen that stimulates cell turnover and promotes new collagen formation. PH Formula’s skin resurfacing packs are my go-to in this area because they are suitable for all skin types, but also targeted.
SPF 30 as a minimum is essential as part of the regimen to protect from UV damage that causes ageing, but also blue light from our screens, which we are using more as we work from home. A recent study showed that five days in front of a computer was equivalent to 30 minutes in the midday sun without sun protection.
The new Byonik laser, based on Nasa technology, is for patients that are needle adverse. The Byonik monitors your pulse and emits pain-free laser pulses into the skin just before each heart beat (as we know, this is when our cells are most permeable to energy/actives ). Each pulse stimulates new collagen formation. The skin is left feeling hydrated and fine lines and wrinkles with sessions are notably reduced.
