Hooked on a new Alentejo trail

You wait ages for a new seaside stroll and then three come along all at once. Last month saw the opening of the 28-mile Berwickshire Coastal Path, followed by the 870-mile Wales Coast Path and now the Rota Vincentina, a 210-mile amble down the Alentejo and Vincentine coasts of southwest Portugal. There are, in fact, two trails, because nothing is ever that straightforward in Portugal. There’s the Caminho Historico, which follows an inland route through cork forests and lush valleys. Then there is the Trilho dos Pescadores, which follows the coast, and, for our money, is the prettiest. The logical way to hike this trail is from north to south, starting in the fishing village of Porto Covo, which is hugely popular with Portuguese tourists and virtually unknown elsewhere. From here on, you’ll discover a wave-battered coastline of sculpted coves, soaring cliffs and enchanting estuaries, strangely reminiscent of a sunnier, friendlier, less-crowded Cornwall. There’s a beach here for everyone, ranging from civilised crowd-pleasers such as the turquoise-washed sands of Zambujeira do Mar, to the roaring, rocky madness of Almograve. The majority are inaccessible by car — 30-odd alone on the 30-mile stretch between Vila Nova de Milfontes and Odeceixe — so expect to have one all to yourself. On the trail, spare a thought for the hardy (some say crazy) Portuguese rock fishermen, a driven breed of salt-caked individualists. You’ll spot them in the most perilous positions between cliff and surf, alternately lighting and relighting cigarettes, baiting hooks and swigging from bottles of aguardente.