We can all agree that scalp health is not a sexy topic and it’s probably one you don’t think about too often. But what if we told you that taking more care of your scalp is the answer to better hair? According to Sisley’s scientific director, Jose Ginestar: “The condition of your hair depends directly on scalp health, so taking action at the roots should be your starting point.”
Some of you are already on board, as trichologists are seeing a rise in clients concerned with their hair health. “It’s becoming a mainstream issue,” says Ian Sallis, one of the UK’s leading hair-loss experts. “Women are much more open to addressing hair issues, such as thinning, and the technology is improving all the time.”
As we said, however, the scalp is not a sexy topic, and the products that are associated with hair health are mostly on the clinical side. In fact, there has been a gaping hole when it comes to hair-health solutions from the luxury haircare sector — until now. Enter Sisley. Yes, Sisley, the French skincare brand, with its face, body and fragrance offerings that sit pretty in pastel pots. Sure, it’s pricy (OK, very pricy), but it has gained a loyal army of fans over the years for its results. Claudia Schiffer and January Jones adore the brand’s Black Rose skincare range, and even the chaps are on board, with Dominic Cooper raving about its suncare. Now, the family-run brand has launched Hair Rituel by Sisley — and this isn’t just the fluffy, “It smells nice” stuff. This range is a science-led “hair and scalp health” collection that tackles issues such as hair strength.
Are the leaders in premium skincare in a position to tackle hair health, though? “Skin health and hair health are not dissimilar,” Ginestar says. “Your scalp and the skin on your face have the same external and internal aggressors, such as stress, pollution and genetics, so you can treat them similarly.” Just as your skin needs a hard-working, targeted regime, so does your hair.
It’s clear to see that scalp health is the latest frontier in haircare. So much so, Aveda reports that in 2016 nearly a quarter of all global hair-product launches included claims about scalp health.
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Sisley’s six-product range comprises two shampoos (one for volume and one for smoothing), a conditioner, a mask, an oil and a serum. The mask is designed, unlike most others, for your scalp. This sounds counterintuitive and grease-making, I know, but the lightweight formula is anything but. It uses active ingredients to nourish the scalp instead of weighing it down. The oil, Ginestar tells me, “is like the make-up of the range”, working to beautify. “If you look in the mirror and your hair is dull, this adds radiance and a delicious scent.”
The hair-strengthening serum, however, is “the star of the show”, and unsurprisingly it is the most technical product. Adding some muscle to proceedings, the brand teamed up with the Centre de Santé Sabouraud, a specialist skin and hair clinic in France, to test the serum rigorously. Apply it every other day along your parting to improve hair texture and density.
There are other factors that also play a role in scalp health: Ginestar recommends eating a sulphur-rich diet — which means stocking up on red meat, oily fish and eggs. (Vegans and vegetarians can get your fix from the supplement Hairjelly, £30.) Follow these fundamentals and better hair will follow.
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The mane facts, by Phoebe McDowell
Do you have a dry scalp or dandruff?
There’s a big difference between these two conditions, yet they’re often confused. A dry scalp lacks moisture, and after being scratched, leaves a dusting of flakes on your shoulders. Try Moroccanoil Dry Scalp Treatment (£26). Seborrhoeic dermatitis (that’s dandruff to you and me), however, is a harmless but unsightly fungus that appears in flakes on the scalp due to a secretion of yeast. Try Sebamed Anti-Dandruff Shampoo (£5).
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Is hair loss different for men and women?
“Hair loss and thinning happens when testosterone is converted into something called DHT,” says Sallis. This inhibits the function of hair follicles and shrinks their size, causing hair to thin or disappear altogether. Men have higher levels of testosterone, and some will start to suffer from genetic forms of hair loss after they hit puberty. And yes, before you ask, a receding hairline is genetic. Women, however, have less testosterone and more oestrogen, so the effects are much less noticeable until after the menopause.
How should you wash your hair?
Turn down the temperature dial. Hot water serves only to exacerbate dryness, dandruff and, in some cases, shedding. In fact, Adam Reed of Percy & Reed advocates a short, sharp blast of cold water at the end of every shower, no matter what your condition or qualm. “It boosts circulation, which means your scalp gets a surge of salubrious nutrients.”
Don’t be tempted to skip washing post Spin class, says the trichologist Guy Parsons. “The bacterial build-up in sweat and oil from your sebaceous glands are a recipe for smelly, itchy and infected scalps.” Exfoliate your scalp weekly, just like you would your face. “This will stop dead skin falling onto your shoulders.” Try Kiehl’s Deep Micro-Exfoliating Scalp Treatment (£20).
