Though his goal was Madrid and the discriminating art patron Philip II, El Greco’s rather bizarre style panicked the king and, in a huff, the artist moved to Spain’s former capital in 1577 -forging a profitable career here until his death.
Intellectuals and patrons populated Toledo, and it proved perfect for this antagonistic and unconventional Greek. He apparently enjoyed a lifestyle of conspicuous consumption, living it up in his 24-room palace, employing musicians to play while he ate.
For enthusiasts, there are plenty of El Grecos dotted throughout the city that have not made the journey over to the National Gallery. Toledo’s mammoth Gothic cathedral has a sacristy packed with his tear-stained saints and anguished Christs. The models, so the rumour goes, were inmates from the local asylum.
Other sources include Santo Tome, for El Greco’s famous Burial of Count Orgaz, and for yet more soulful saints, the Casa-Museo de El Greco.
But even without these treasures, Toledo is still worth seeing. Spring is ideal, when this lovely town with its crenellated walls, grand gateways, and mix of Moorish and medieval architecture enjoys a brief respite from the crowds.
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WHAT ELSE? There are more than 80 churches to choose from, but be sure to include the airy Gothic San Juan de los Reyes. Before the Granada conquest, it was earmarked as the last resting place of Ferdinand and Isabella.
Today it’s popular as a wedding venue. Celebrity Spanish footballers in particular favour its pretty orange grove cloisters for their wedding curtain calls. Perhaps they identify with the fantastic gargoyles of farting monks and grimacing monkeys.
Just outside the city walls, the Museo Hospital de Tavera houses the collection of the 16th-century grandee, Cardinal Tavera. Dwarfing El Greco on the oddity stakes is Ribera’s portrait of Magdalena Ventura -a 52-year-old woman busy suckling her newborn, and sporting a beard that would make Rolf Harris envious.
Unless you’re into swords or sentimental ceramic dolls, forget shopping - excepting Toledo’s marzipan, a legacy of the sweet-toothed Moors and now made primarily by nuns.
WHERE TO STAY? The Hostal del Cardenal, Paseo de Recaredo 24 (00 34 925 22 49 00, www.hostaldelcardenal.com) is a romantic former cardinal’s pleasure palace set in the ramparts, with a walled garden. Doubles from Pounds 45 a night.
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The 17th-century Toledan townhouse, Hotel Pintor El Greco, located in the Jewish quarter, Alamillos del Transito 13 (902 15 4645, www.
hotelpintorelgreco.com) has charming rooms with good views from Pounds 70 a night.
FOOD AND FUN For a drink with a view that perfectly matches El Greco’s View of Toledo -bar the odd building crane -head for the parador on the southern slopes above the River Tajo.
Toledo’s confusion of narrow alleys allows few open spaces for pit stops, so the Zocodover -the triangular square to the east of town offers a welcome change.
Stop for a beer at the Cafe Bar Toledo to watch the locals gossip.
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Meson La Orza, Calle Descalzos 5 (925 22 30 11), is a non-touristy joint in the Juderia, with set meals for Pounds 14, and specialities such as stuffed partridge cooked with onions, and suckling pig. The leg of milk-fed lamb is sublime.
For tapas, buzzy La Abadia, Pza de San Nicolas 3, is hard to beat. The best nightlife is found at Bar-Theatro Picaro in Calle Cadenas. It’s modern and funky, with live music.
NEED TO KNOW EasyJet (0871 7500100, www.easyjet.com) has daily flights from Luton, Gatwick and Liverpool to Madrid from Pounds 41 return.
Buses from Madrid’s Estacion Sur leave for Toledo on the hour and half-hour. The journey (Pounds 2.50) takes 75 minutes.