If ever there’s a time to pick up a magnum or two, this is it. They look especially generous and festive at Christmas, and the minor downside that they can be harder to uncork and unwieldy to pour is compensated for by the likelihood of the wine being in perfect condition. Magnums contain 1.5 litres, so the ratio of air to wine is much less than in a standard 75cl bottle, meaning the wine ages far more slowly and tastes perkier.
Understandably, magnums usually command a premium over single bottles, but thankfully it is nowhere near as extortionate as on more showy large formats such as jeroboams (four bottles) or methuselahs (eight). Indeed, the Perrin family’s Christmas present to us all has been to bottle up their brilliant La Vieille Ferme trio in magnums, down from £15 to £12 a pop at Tesco until January. My favourite is the 2020 Rouge, an oak-aged, mostly grenache-based vin de table from the southern Rhône, with lashings of rich, spicy, mocha, red berry and black plum pizzazz. The 2020 Blanc is almost as impressive: a herby, stone-fruited, clever southern rhône blend, again mostly grenache blanc, but with an all-important sparky, lime twist dab of vermentino.
If you’re dreaming of a white burgundy Christmas, you’ll need to spend more, either on Corney & Barrow’s smartly labelled burgundy (below) or on one of the Talmard’s unoaked, fruit-first editions, from a family who have tended vines around Uchizy since the 17th century. They have made an especially vibrant 2018 Mâcon-Chardonnay, all racy, spiced yellow plum and fruity red apple oomph; it’s the perfect festive fishy white (tanners-wines.co.uk, £29.95).
If it’s festive reds you want, there’s a tenner off the Perrins’ delicious 2018 La Grange St Martin Châteauneuf-du-Pape (Waitrose, £39.99 until December 28). It’s a majestic southern rhône red, bright, with herby, assertive red plum fruit, softened by two years ageing in old oak. It’s the festive bottle to buy if a rib of beef is on the table.
Honey-baked ham is a tricky dish to match with wine, yet the tangy sour cherry-spiked 2016 Heba Morellino di Scansano (leaandsandeman.co.uk, £36.50) is just the ticket and will also partner fatty fowl, especially goose.
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The Society’s Champagne Brut, France, 12.5 per cent
thewinesociety.com, £69
Here’s hoping this heavenly magnum is under the tree. It’s a bold, toasty, yet citrusy bubbly.
2020 Fleurie, Clos de la Roilette, France, 13 per cent
leaandsandeman.co.uk, £40.95
Delicious superior cru beaujolais, with gorgeous, ripe damson, plum and cherry style.
2019 Corney & Barrow Burgundy, Mâcon-Villages, France, 13.5 per cent
corneyandbarrow.com, £30
An elegant, smoky, sweet-as-a-nut white burgundy.
2008 Château Potensac, Médoc, France,
13 per cent
bbr.com, £55
Moody, old-school yet classic claret from the great Delon stable, all meaty, herby, tannic fruit.
2018 La Grange St Martin Châteauneuf-du-Pape, France, 14.5 per cent
Waitrose, £39.99 (down from £49.99)
A bold, beautiful, mostly grenache mix, with a dash of syrah and mourvèdre.
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2020 La Vieille Ferme Rosé, Vin de France, 13 per cent
Tesco, £12 (down from £15)
The Perrin family make great southern Rhône reds and brilliant table wines, such as this tangy, herby pink.
2016 Heba Morellino di Scansano, Italy, 13 per cent
leaandsandeman. co.uk, £36.50
Tart, zingy red for tricky festive meals and leftovers. It’s acts just like a spoonful of cranberry sauce.
2018 Mâcon-Chardonnay, Talmard, France, 13 per cent
tanners-wines.co.uk, £29.95
Mallory and Benjamin Talmard carry on their family’s traditions in Mâconnais with this beguiling white burgundy.
