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FLORENCE KNIGHT

Fried squash, sage and lemon mayonnaise

The Sunday Times
PHOTOGRAPH: MATT RUSSELL. FOOD STYLING: AYA NISHIMURA. PROP STYLING: TAMSIN WESTON

Lightly battered squash with a good helping of mayonnaise is impressive, seasonal and easy. Serve as a welcoming morsel with a glass of prosecco or as a starter.

The squash and mayonnaise can be prepared a day in advance. A flexible spiral sauce whisk, rather than a balloon type, helps make mayonnaise quickly by hand (any left over is delicious in chicken sandwiches). When frying the squash, it’s crucial to maintain the oil at a constant heat to achieve crisp batter. It’s worth investing in a deep-frying thermometer.

Serves: 4 people

INGREDIENTS

2 egg yolks
1 tbsp Dijon mustard
1 large unwaxed lemon, juiced and finely zested
200ml sunflower oil
4 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
1 small butternut or red onion squash, prepped weight about 250g

For the batter

500ml vegetable oil, for frying
150g self-raising flour
1½ tsp baking powder
330ml cold sparkling water


01 Set a small bowl onto a damp cloth to prevent it from moving. Add the egg yolks, mustard, lemon juice and a teaspoon of salt. Whisk for a few minutes to combine.

02 Pour in the vegetable oil and then the olive oil in a very thin, slow and steady stream. Don’t rush this, as the mayonnaise will split. As the mixture gradually thickens, you can add the oil a little more quickly. Whisk until it is smooth, thick and glossy, then fold through the lemon zest and adjust the seasoning to taste. Cover the surface of the mayonnaise directly with clingfilm and place into the fridge.

03 Peel the squash down to the bright-orange flesh, following its natural shape. Halve the squash and use a spoon to scoop out all the membrane and seeds from the centre. Cut into crescents ½cm-1cm thick. Set aside, covered with a damp cloth in the fridge if you are doing this in advance.

04 Half-fill a deep, heavy-bottomed pan with the vegetable oil. Heat over a medium heat to about 180C. You can test the oil temperature with a small piece of bread if you don’t have a thermometer: once the oil is hot, the bread should crisp up and be golden within a couple of minutes, sizzling in the hot oil.

05 Place the flour, baking powder, sparkling water and a good pinch of salt into a bowl and whisk together quickly to make the batter. Don’t overwork the mixture — a few lumps is normal.

06 Dip the squash pieces in the batter to coat, shaking off any excess. Carefully place the pieces into the hot oil and deep-fry for 3-4 minutes, until crisp and pale gold in colour. Remove from the oil with a slotted spoon and place on a cooling rack, set over a tray. Repeat this process with the rest of the squash and sage sprigs, being careful not to overcrowd the pan.

07 Season with fine salt while they’re warm and serve immediately with a good helping of mayonnaise.