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Fresh and wild: Pumpkins

The large orange pumpkins used at Hallowe’en look good, but they are lightweight in serious food cultures

The large orange pumpkins that have ousted the Scottish neep at Hallowe'en may be better looking, but in serious pumpkin and squash food cultures they are lightweight. As with melons, weight is always more important than shape.

In the food culture of sub-Saharan Africa, where weighty pumpkins and squashes are a staple, people also check aroma and sniff for ripeness before they buy. It's not widely known, however, how Africans cook and eat their favourite pumpkins and squashes. Unless, of course, you happen to be familiar with a Botswanan lady detective.

Her culinary habits have recently been revealed in Mma Ramotswe's Cookbook written by Stuart Brown who has trawled Alexander McCall Smith's novels for food references. The result is a lively mix of recipes combined with Mma's charming ability to provide sensible food for thought: "It was time to take the pumpkin out of the pot and eat it. In the final analysis, that was what solved these big problems in life. You could think and think and get nowhere, but you still had to eat your pumpkin. That gave you a reason for going on."

Put pumpkin slices in a pot with a little water and salt (Mma likes sugar too). Cover and cook 30-40 minutes or until soft. Serve with butter.

Mme Ramotswe's Cookbook by Stuart Brown, Polygon, £18.99

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