Not so long ago, the mention of dried strawberries would have induced a torrent of complaints about elitism. Now, however, every supermarket has a selection of dried jewels, from strawberries to papaya, pears or mango, pandering not just to cooks, but to the growing market for “healthy snacking”. Check the labels, though, and you might find there is more than just fruit in the pack. As dried fruit was traditionally a baking ingredient, use of preservatives was widespread because these were expected to be diluted in cooking. But now more people are eating dried fruit on its own, it is an area that is coming under greater scrutiny.
How do you dry fruit?
Formerly, you simply left it in the sun until the moisture was sucked out of it, the flavour intensified as the sugars concentrated and the colour darkened. Some commercial companies still sun-dry their fruit, others freeze-dry it and many use dehydrating machines. When the process involves warmth and air (including sun-drying), light-coloured fruit, in particular, will often be treated with sulphur dioxide so that it keeps its bright colour – unless the product is organic, in which case, this isn’t allowed. Sometimes the dried fruit is partially re-hydrated to bulk it up, make it look more plump and appealing and softer to eat, in which case preservatives such as potassium sorbate may be used to protect against mould. You might find sugar has been added to keep the fruit moist and plump while preserving it more naturally, or vegetable oil may be used for gloss and to keep the pieces of fruit from sticking to each other. Some dried fruit, such as banana chips, is deep-fried before drying.
Why the concern about sulphur dioxide?
Some people, especially asthmatics, can be sensitive to sulphur dioxide. When a friend suffered stomach cramps and fainting after eating too many sulphurised apricots, former power-station designer Lotte Garner was prompted to set up a small dried-fruit company called Southern Alps (although she and husband Andrew like to talk about “slow fruit” rather than dried fruit). Carefully chosen growers, whose crops are organic or grown without chemicals, supply fruit at its ripest, which Southern Alps washes and cuts, then dries using nothing but warm air and patience. “Our process takes two days, whereas some producers dry their fruit in 4-6 hours. But, with more heat, you lose more nutrients, especially vitamin C,” says Lotte.
Where to buy
Southern Alps (01474 871275; www.southern-alps.co.uk). The No 25 Slow Selection (a gift box of ten fruits) is available from Harvey Nichols, £14.50. Urban Fresh Fruits, sold in major supermarkets, uses no preservatives or added sugar (www.urbanfreshfruit.com; 01283 735551). Or look for organic dried fruit, such as Daylesford Organic’s range (www.daylesfordorganic.com; 01608 731700).
Reader query
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Where can I find lemon curd made with free-range eggs?
Kitchen Garden Preserves makes small batches in open pans, £3.15 for 300g (01453 759612; www.kitchengardenpreserves.co.uk).