Fresh currants have always been a gardeners’ treat. They are too often overlooked in a bowl of mixed berries. But it’s their astringent burst that lifts them away from the overfamiliar and, often, disappointingly bland.
As ingredients, the black and red (white go hand in hand with the latter) need to be treated separately. Blackcurrants belong to the cook. Start with a simple compote: for 500g fruit, add 100ml water and approximately 150g sugar — or better still, fructose (fruit sugar). Simmer for a few minutes, just until the berries burst, then remove from the heat and allow to cool. Its flavour is sparkling and intense, and beautifully balanced by rich dairy produce. Eat for breakfast spooned over granola and Greek yoghurt.
Or for pudding, try this simple, deconstructed cheesecake: make the base from crushed digestives and melted butter, and allow to set in the fridge. Whisk together equal amounts of Greek yoghurt and mascarpone, and sweeten only slightly with a little caster sugar. Spoon over the top of the base and top with blackcurrant compote. Or, for a miraculous ice cream, push the compote through a fine sieve and add about a quarter of its volume in double cream, then churn till frozen in an ice-cream maker and transfer to the freezer. It will keep for a couple of weeks.
Strain the fruit from the compote completely, and you have a syrup worth singing about. Stir through softened vanilla or chocolate ice cream to make a ripple, or dilute with sparkling water (or sparkling wine) on a hot day with a sprig of mint for a delicious drink.
Redcurrants, on the other hand, don’t bear much cooking at all. They are sensational over a meringue base with whipped cream as an unexpected Pavlova, or as a simple tart, made with a crumbly sweet shortcrust base cooked till golden, cooled, then spread with slightly sweetened mascarpone and scattered with currants and icing sugar. Turn a plate of broken-up chocolate into a display of petits fours by brushing red and white currants — still dangling like pendants on their stalks — with a little beaten egg white and dipping in caster sugar to coat until they resemble frosted gems, then leaving to set.
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A rare time when all colours work hand in hand: place a few currants into mini-cupcake cases and top with plain sponge batter. Bake until set and the berries have burst, beautifully staining the cakes. Allow to set and dust with icing sugar. Food for angels, fairies and grubby gardeners’ fingers alike.