43-51 Great Titchfield St London W1 (020-7927 0840); ridinghousecafe.co.uk
WHAT THE CRITICS SAY
John Lanchester
The Guardian, June 18
The very on-trend Riding House Café, near Oxford Street, has a no-booking bar bit and a bookable restaurant bit, both serving the same menu and both nicely fitted out in the open-plan modern style. We arrived much too early for our booking, but they were incredibly cool and nice about finding a space for two at the bar instead. You don’t have to have the notorious small plates but, if you do, you’ll encounter the pleasant fact that they cost £3-£5.
Matthew Norman
The Telegraph, July 2
A salt cod fritter was deep-fried to perfection and served with a red pepper aioli; plump and juicy pork belly delectably seasoned with star anise and garnished with glorious crackling; and three fat chunks of tender, pink Moorish lamb. The pick of the bunch came from the main course menu, a chorizo hash brown arriving alluringly crispy and crunchy in its bespoke pan, adorned by two poached eggs and field mushrooms.
Marina O’Loughlin
Metro, June 14
“Spiced gingerbread” — how could it be anything else? — pudding is good... But I wonder how much they’re paying their staff, because, with [a few exceptions] they’re a bit inept... Still, if they let me in again after this, I’ll be back like a rat up a drainpipe.
WHAT THE DINERS SAY
The café is well designed and modern. Charlie7 on viewlondon.co.uk
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WHAT THE OWNERS SAY
Clive Watson
The décor and atmosphere are a big focus for us. I think we’ve achieved a European look that has a certain Britishness to it. People have said that it feels like it’s been here a long time.
The benefit of the way our menu is structured is, if you are under time pressure you can pop in, order a couple of small plates and a drink and be out very quickly. In a group you get to try a few things and share with friends.
We work hard at hospitality — we’re training all the time and we want our service to be really great, warm and informed. We might employ people without much technical experience but we can teach that; we’re looking for personality. We messed a few things up on Marina O’Loughlin’s visit, but there are a lot of very happy customers here.