Never mind the buzz: this week, the review website Toptable announced the Top 100 restaurants in Britain according to diners’ ratings, and the list is surprisingly unfashionable.
Ignoring all the offal and “small plates” favoured by critics, diners rank the Claridges and Pétrus restaurants owned by the critically savaged Gordon Ramsay fifth and 15th best in Britain. The service champion Michel Roux Jr’s Le Gavroche placed third, and the Gaucho chain has five separate entries. There is a good geographical spread in the list, from Exeter’s Conservatory Restaurant at No 6 to Piccolo Mondo (No 2) in Glasgow.
But the No 1 spot goes to Restaurant Martin Wishart, which Toptable diners in Edinburgh recommend for a special occasion. Usually, Dine Out focuses on the critics’ reviews but this week we’ve granted the privilege to those who pay their own expenses.
WHAT THE CUSTOMERS SAY
Toptable.co.uk
We went into the place with extremely high expectations, and MW did not disappoint. My partner and I had the seven-course tasting menu, and it was exquisite. MS, March 4
The food was sublime: highlights being a shot of deliciously savoury pumpkin veloute (just one of the amuse-bouche components) and lamb that was pink, succulent and tender. Helen Probart, <br>December 1
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Not the best 1 star Michelin restaurant we have been to. The food was rather disappointing particularly my wife’s. She used to teach in a cook school and demonstrate. Her starter of langoustine on a bed of cauliflower puree with white chocolate was too sweet and rather overpowered the langoustine. LM, February 9
The Culzean Partridge was cooked to pink perfection and the cheese trolley always a delight. Tip — the house champagne goes well with the haggis bonbons to start. KF, October 18
The standard of service continues to be of the highest order and this was portrayed in a small but very thoughtful, unasked-for, happy birthday chocolate message for my aged aunt. This made her day. WD, February 17
WHAT THE CRITICS SAY
Pascal Wyse, The Guardian, September 2007
There is a sense of real detail and care in everything that comes out of this kitchen, right down to the chocolates and jellies, but I’d be in more of a hurry to return if the price were lowered.
Claire Black, The Scotsman, March 2009
From the food to the service and back to the food once more, it’s really, really good. For my money, there’s no better restaurant in Edinburgh.
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WHAT THE OWNER SAYS
Martin Wishart
Being Toptable’s top diner-rated restaurant is great for my team, because unlike some awards, it isn’t just for the food — a big part of it is front of house.
I don’t scan the web for reviews, but if there is something that’s being repeatedly commented on negatively then it should be looked into. We once moved our cheese trolley, for example, because people at the table next to it wrote that the smell was bothering them.
We haven’t had many newspaper critics writing about us lately but it’s not something I’m worried about, business is healthy. The most valuable thing about this to me is that customers feel they’ve had a great experience; they have memories that they’ll go and tell their friends about.
54 The Shore, Leith, Edinburgh EH6 (0131-553 3557); martin-wishart.co.uk