Dana lived in Italy for three years and is co-author of the Cadogan Guide to Tuscany
The wake-up: Make a beeline for Caffè Donnini (Piazza della Repubblica 15/R), where baristas froth the tastiest cappuccinos in town, and opt for a chocolate-filled, light-as-a-cloud cornetto for a caffeine-sugar hit. There are tables on the busy piazza but sit inside – with the Florentines – and you’ll pay half the price.
The undiscovered sight: Who needs the Uffizi? Instead, see the best of Florence’s sculptures at the Bargello (Via del Proconsolo 4; www.polomuseale.firenze.it; £3) – it’s the most undeservedly under-visited museum in the world. Imprisoned in its muscular 13th-century walls are heart-skippingly beautiful sculptures by Cellini, Michelangelo and Donatello – don’t miss his mischievously erotic David, the alter ego of Michelangelo’s outsized version at the Accademia.
The hearty lunch: ZEB (Via San Miniato 2; 00 39 055 234 2864, www.zebgastronomia.com; mains around £6) – the acronym stands for zuppa e bollito (soup and boiled meats) – is a chic Florentine take on the ’50s American diner. Here, owner Alberto Navari dishes out his mamma Giuseppina’s mouthwatering classics and genuine Tuscan soul food, such as ribollito (vegetable soup) or, for the daring, lampredotto (made from the fourth stomach of a cow).
The secret stroll: Turn up steep Costa San Giorgio, past Galileo’s house, and follow Via San Leonardo for 20 minutes until you reach Arcetri – a secret rural idyll of walled villas and warbling blackbirds. On the way back, laze on the smooth lawn at the Forte di Belvedere, a 16th-century fortress, where you’ll have views of Brunelleschi’s Duomo hovering dream-like over the city.
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The ultimate aperitivo: The Negroni Bar (Via dei Renai 17/R; www.negronibar.com; drink and buffet £6.60), where the eponymous, and luscious, vermouth, Campari and gin cocktail was invented, is back in vogue. The buffet spread makes it difficult to move on.
The cosy dinner: Surprisingly near the Duomo, Enoteca Coquinarius (Via dell’Oche 15/R; 00 39 055 230 2153, www.coquinarius.it; mains around £7) is an intimate wine bar and a breath of fresh air in the centro storico. Pear and cheese ravioli is a treat, salads are great and there are wines from around the world.
The local haunt: By day, La Cité Libreria Café (Borgo San Frediano 20; www.lacitelibreria.info) is full of locals imbibing espressos as they pore over books and emails; but at night, jazz, swing, tango and even acrobats take centre-stage.
The perfect sleep: Riva Lofts (00 39 055 713 0272, www.rivalofts.com; doubles from £181, B&B) is a pleasant 20-minute stroll away from the city centre, along the River Arno. And for your trouble, you’ll be rewarded with a giant suite in an architect’s former home, a sleek pool and hammocks in the garden, and homemade pear cake for breakfast around the communal table.
Act local
Daniela Lippi has been an expert guide in Florence for the past 25 years. Her tours cost £51 per hour (00 39 335 573 1600, lippi@florencemail.net). ‘If you opt to stand at the counter in a cafe, you’ll pay little more than a euro for a cappuccino. But sit at a table on the same premises and the coffee could cost as much as six euros – you’re paying for service and the space you are occupying. On the plus side, you will be left alone to rest your tired tourist feet for as long as you wish.’