When I first ordered chicken paillard in a restaurant, I had no idea whether it was a part of the chicken, a technique, or a place name.
Wrong on all counts, as it turns out. The name comes from a Parisian restaurateur famous in the 19th century, who took over the restaurant on the corner of rue de la Chaussée-d’Antin and the boulevard des Italiens in 1880.
M Paillard turned it into a glamorous and fashionable eating house, known for its theatrical clientele and its poulet archduke, pommes georgette, calves’ sweetbreads with asparagus tips, and a stuffed duck that, according to Larousse Gastronomique, rivalled that of the famous Tour d’Argent.
One of his creations, a thinly pounded escalope, or fillet, of veal, was given the name “le paillard”. It is a clever dish for the home cook, because the meat is so thin that it cooks quickly and easily.
You don’t even have to butterfly the breast before pounding it, because today’s chicken breasts are so substantial that you are better off just cutting them horizontally in two.
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Pair them with potatoes in a simple, lemony sauce, and you may well become as famous for your chicken as M Paillard.
INGREDIENTS
Serves 4
Prep 20 mins
Cook 10 mins
500g waxy potatoes, peeled
4 chicken breast fillets, 180g each
2 garlic cloves, finely sliced
1tbsp rosemary leaves
3tbsp olive oil
Sea salt and pepper
150ml dry white wine
1tbsp salted capers, rinsed
2tbsp lemon juice
1tbsp butter
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METHOD
Thickly slice the potatoes and cook in simmering salted water until just tender. Cut each chicken breast in half horizontally, and bash with a meat mallet or wooden rolling pin to flatten.
Marinate for 15 minutes in garlic, rosemary, olive oil, sea salt and pepper.
Heat a frying pan until hot, add a tablespoon of the marinade, and sear the chicken quickly on each side until golden. Remove and keep warm.
Add the white wine, capers and lemon juice to the pan and bring to the boil. Add the potatoes and butter and jiggle the pan over high heat to coat them in the juices. Spoon over the chicken and serve.