Officially an overseas collectivity of France, Saint Barthélemy — known as St Barts to English speakers — is a relic of colonial conquest that embarrasses some and delights many more. Not fully independent, it spent almost a century under a Swedish flag having been sold by France, only to be rebought in 1878. Today that strange history seems like a long-forgotten memory — few of France’s remaining overseas territories are as prosperous as this Caribbean treasure chest.
It’s long been established as a holiday destination for the rich though not necessarily famous and many of the prices demanded by its extraordinary resorts will simply be out of reach for most people. Nonetheless, those willing to explore a bit will be able to find more modest hotels for their budgets. And regardless of your bank balance or background, the island’s seductive beaches and fantastically clear water are just waiting to be visited.
Main photo: Le Sereno Hotel, Anse de Grand Cul-de-Sac (booking.com)
1. Salines Garden Cottages, Saline Beach
A quintet of properties near a beach of the same name, Salines Garden Cottages, offer a holiday experience quite unlike the ultra-high-end hotels in St Barts. The peace and quiet (and price range) will feel a world away from the glitzy experiences elsewhere on the island. Three of the five cottages have their own kitchens, so you can really keep yourself to yourself, but otherwise it’s a short walk to neighbourhood restaurants, including the beloved L’Esprit.
Spa N
Pool Y
Price £
Advertisement
2. Cheval Blanc St-Barth Isle de France, Baie des Flamands
One of the most recognisable brands in the luxury hotels game, Cheval Blanc is quite at home in upmarket St Barts. It overlooks Flamands Beach and, if the water there gets choppy, the property has two private pools of its own. Despite being the largest hotel on the island, it’s very expensive and able to charge stratospheric prices thanks to its dedication to outstanding service and cuisine.
Spa Y
Pool Y
Price £££
3. Rosewood Le Guanahani, Anse de Grand Cul-de-Sac
Recently reopened following hurricane damage (and subsequent acquisition by the Rosewood brand) Le Guanahani will once more be pitching itself as one of the most luxurious hotels on the island. The new ownership guarantees the excellence of the hotel spa treatments, something of a Rosewood speciality. The white sand beach, which rolls out the back of the property into the Caribbean, is the undoubted highlight, however, with the resort providing non-motorised watersports for all guests.
Spa Y
Pool Y
Price £££
4. Hôtel Barrière Le Carl Gustaf, Gustavia
Beach resorts far outweigh conventional hotels in St Barts but if you don’t fancy getting too sandy, Hôtel Barrière Le Carl Gustaf brings a decadent experience something like those found on the French Riviera. With great views over Gustavia and in the wake of a four-year update, it’s very much ready to impress. Wisely for a refurbished property, its green credentials are now solid too, with electric bikes and cars available for beach trips and clever ventilation cutting down on the demand for air con.
Advertisement
Spa Y
Pool N
Price £££
5. Hotel Le Toiny, Anse de Toiny
The Côte Sauvage (Savage Coast) today seems like it was very poorly named. This eastern extremity of the island is now one of the more sought-after areas in St Barts and — as though to prove that — one of its finest hotels is located here. There are 22 villas in Le Toiny, each looking out towards sunrise, all receiving breakfast to their terraces each morning. The beach club is high-end but not hectic, while the spa is small but equally tranquil.
Spa Y
Pool Y
Price £££
6. Villa Marie Saint-Barth, Colombier
There aren’t any hotels directly looking over the protected Colombier Beach, but Villa Marie Saint-Barth gets close enough for it to be a pleasant nature walk. The hotel itself has great coastal views anyway, and a signature restaurant that gets plenty of attention thanks to its decor and furniture. The food is much more innovative, with French techniques applied to Caribbean ingredients. Meanwhile, of the 22 rooms, the five bungalows are the most impressive.
Spa Y
Pool Y
Price £££
7. Le Sereno Hotel, Anse de Grand Cul-de-Sac
Advertisement
Located in the heart of Anse de Grand Cul-de-Sac, Le Sereno debuted in 2018 and it’s won a loyal fanbase. With 39 rooms and a handful of villas, it’s actually one of the larger hotels on the island, but that hasn’t led to its rigorous standards of service and dining dropping. Water babies will be delighted by the proximity of the beach too — there’s some excellent snorkelling just moments from the rooms.
Spa Y
Pool Y
Price £££
8. Christopher St Barth, Pointe Milou
Facing west on Pointe Milou, Christopher’s sunloungers are perfectly placed to watch the sun set over the western part of St Barts. All 42 of its rooms face the ocean too, and though the hotel may not be directly on a beach, the nearest one is just a five-minute walk away. Inside, the airy rooms match the relaxed ambience of this quieter part of the island. If you’re looking for more of a party atmosphere, it’s best to look elsewhere.
Spa Y
Pool Y
Price £££
9. Le Barthélemy Hotel & Spa, Grand Cul-de-Sac
Tucked away between the Grand Etang lagoon and the Caribbean, Le Barthélemy doesn’t get much passing traffic. Built in 2016 when it was the first new hotel on the island in two decades, it has overcome Hurricane Irma and now the pandemic to establish itself as one of the best (and most expensive) hotels around. Its bright, brilliant indoor restaurant is on hand should rain pass through, but to make the most of its direct beach access, Amis Plage serves meals alfresco.
Advertisement
Spa Y
Pool Y
Price £££
10. Hotel Manapany, Anse des Cayes
St Barts is not enormous, but to really reduce the time between landing and holidaymaking, Manapany is just a five-minute transfer from Gustaf III airport. Several of its rooms open directly onto Anse des Cayes Beach, which may not be the calmest around the island but does attract surfers. With few other options nearby, there’s a focus on the on-site restaurant and bar, and while the former presents local ingredients, the latter has its own takes on cocktail classics, as well as a live DJ.
Spa Y
Pool Y
Price £££
11. Eden Rock, Baie de St Jean
Sitting on its own little peninsula in the middle of Baie de St Jean, Eden Rock looks to quite literally stand out from the crowd. Like many rivals around the island, it was severely hurricane damaged, but has roared back now to once more be in the heart of the action. The proximity of the lively Nikki Beach resort keeps the atmosphere electrified, but inside the hotel there’s plenty of opulence to justify its stratospheric prices. The spa is built into the rocks, while its 11 different room categories are all united by meticulous attention to detail and calming decor.
Spa Y
Pool Y
Price £££
12. Les Ilets De La Plage, Gustavia
Advertisement
No interest in a resort holiday? This collection of 12 villas located just a couple of minutes’ drive from the airport is a wise choice. Although united by this convenience, each property has something different. Some have direct access to St Jean Beach, others have lush gardens, while one is simply a studio apartment. Though there’s a focus on self-catering, meals can be delivered, and supplies arranged ahead of your arrival. Daily bread and pastries are dropped off each morning too, should you start to forget you’re technically still in a part of France.
Spa N
Pool Y
Price £££
13. Hotel Les Ondines Sur La Plage, Grand Cul-de-Sac
Sitting alongside Le Barthélemy on the spit of land that divides Grand Etang and Grand Cul-de-Sac, Hotel Les Ondines is a humbler product than its nominal rival. Built in 2002, it still has the same owners who keep things simple: breakfast is served in the rooms, and there’s no restaurant or bar. The villas each have their own personality (and name) with the largest offering two bedrooms. All of them have good access to the gorgeous Grand Cul-de-Sac beach and its calm surf.
Spa N
Pool Y
Price ££
14. Auberge de la Petite Anse, Anse des Flamands
There are undoubtedly showier and more expensive options around the island, but if you’re a nature lover, there won’t be much to beat this auberge. With 16 apartment-style rooms, it’s a short walk to the sumptuous Colombier Beach trail and to the slightly more developed blond scythe that is Flamands Beach. The colourful villas are built onto a cliffside and though the rooms may be somewhat basic, they still represent excellent value.
Spa N
Pool N
Price £
When is the best time to visit the Caribbean?
Discover the best Caribbean resorts for families
Discover the best all-inclusive resorts in the Caribbean
Take me there
Inspired to visit St Barts but yet to book your trip? Here are the best hotels from Mr and Mrs Smith* and Expedia*. And if you’re still unsure of where you want to go or what type of holiday to book, get in touch here and one of the Designer Travel experts will be in contact to help you arrange your perfect tailor-made break.
Sign up for the Times Travel Newsletter here.
