It’s Burgundy week in London, as the wine-tasting calendar begins the new year in style. Over the next few days we will see chilly cellars packed full of trestle tables laden with bottle samples of the 2021 vintage, as the region’s vignerons show their wares. Burgundy produces some of the most sought-after wines in the world. This thin strip of land, barely more than a mile wide in parts, which begins just south of Dijon and ends north of Lyons, is home to some of the most complex, nuanced and sublime expressions of pinot noir and chardonnay.
Sadly, a combination of global demand, several years of small yields and the fact that the great vineyards cannot expand their footprint has led to soaring prices, in some cases by more than £300 a bottle. For the very top wines you can expect to pay more than £1,000.
It’s tricky to source decent pinot noir at a reasonable price as it’s a difficult grape to grow, and lesser examples can taste a bit thin and lack personality. But there are options: you’ll find good value in satellite villages such as Marsannay, Santenay, Rully and Givry, or you can go to the big trading houses for bottles such as Louis Latour’s silky Côte de Beaune Villages (Tesco, £20).
You can also, of course, look for pinot elsewhere in the world. The New Zealand producers Ata Rangi, Craggy Range, Felton Road and the ever reliable Villa Maria are all worth knowing, and two from Australia that I have particularly enjoyed recently are Ten Minutes by Tractor on the Mornington Peninsula and Giant Steps in the Yarra Valley. In England, both Danbury Ridge in Essex and Sharpham in Devon are also good sources.
This week I’ve set myself the goal of making a selection more modest on price, limiting myself to £15 a bottle. These may not reach the heights of Burgundy’s grand cru vineyards, but what they lack in complexity they make up for in drinkability and sheer enjoyment.
Twitter: @Will_Lyons
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2021 Tierra y Hombre Pinot Noir
Chile (13.5%)
Marks & Spencer, £7.50
A bright, sappy pinot from the Casablanca Valley coastal region, this has generous red fruit and floral aromas. Ideal with light meat dishes.
2020 Taste the Difference Pays d’Oc Pinot Noir
France (13.5%)
Sainsbury’s, £11
Here’s a supple, easy-drinking example from a distinguished estate in the Languedoc, delivering vibrant raspberry and spice.
2021 Winemaster’s Lot Bourgogne Pinot Noir
France (12.5%)
Aldi, £9.99
Not all burgundy is out of reach: this smooth, cherry-scented pinot has a dash of gamay in the blend, giving it a rich, juicy finish.
2018 Estancia Pinot Noir
USA (13.5%)
Tesco, £14
Californian pinot can be eye-wateringly expensive but not this one, which marries an expressive nose of raspberry and cherry with a dry, silky finish.
2021 IGP Pays d’Oc Domaine Girard Pinot Noir
France (13.5%)
Yapp Brothers, £14.25
Derived from grapes planted at high altitude, here’s another French example that sings with vitality and succulent fruit.
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2020 Louis Guntrum Pinot Noir
Germany (13.5%)
Waitrose, £14.99
German spätburgunder, as pinot noir is known there, enjoys a growing reputation. This has juicy cherry and a touch of spice from oak ageing.
Bargain of the week
2021 The Best Swartland Chenin Blanc
South Africa (12.5%)
Morrisons, £7
When it’s produced with skill, chenin blanc makes a refreshing, flavoursome alternative to chardonnay. This crisp, well-balanced example from Swartland in the Western Cape has plenty of crunchy apple and a gentle lick of honey. Great with spicy food.
