Aidan Turner and Eleanor Tomlinson may play the lead roles in the new TV version of Poldark, but there’s another star of the 18th-century romantic saga . . . Cornwall. Much of the action in the eight-part BBC series is filmed on its cliff tops and coves — which is only right given that the original Poldark Novels, by author Winston Graham, were set in the county.
The story captures the period when Ross Poldark (played by Turner) returns from fighting in the American War of Independence and struggles to make a success of formerly derelict tin mines while at the same time pursuing his love interests and getting mixed up with local clans.
The series is bound to spark interest in visiting the rugged Cornish landscape, but where exactly was it shot? Here’s our guide to Poldark country.
Porthgwarra
This is a small village by a tiny cove on the coast near Land’s End (about a 90-minute walk away along the South West Coast Path). In the TV series, fishing scenes are set in the cove and it’s where Ross Poldark goes for a naked swim while being observed from a clifftop by love-interest Demelza Carne (played by Tomlinson). Some night shots were also taken here. Swimming is safe within the cove, but there are strong currents outside its confines. Boulders tumble into the water at each end of the sandy beach, and there’s a man-made tunnel from the slipway through to the road at Porthgwarra that was used by farmers to collect seaweed for fertiliser using horse-drawn carts (local legend has it that smugglers also took advantage of the tunnel).
Where to stay: There are six well-appointed Porthgwarra Holiday Cottages (staubynestatesholidays.co.uk), sleeping from two to eight people; a week’s self-catering at the Corner Cottage, which sleeps two, is from £450.
Charlestown
A couple of miles outside St Austell on the south coast, the village and port of Charlestown doubles as the fictional main town in the television series (along with Corsham in Wiltshire). The village is named after Charles Rashleigh, who built a harbour here in the 1790s — for many years the port was used to export copper. The fascinating Charlestown Shipwreck & Heritage Centre is worth a visit (www.shipwreckcharlestown.com).
Where to stay: There are eight colourful, cosy rooms at the Rashleigh Arms (rashleigharms.co.uk), which has B&B doubles from £65.
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Doyden Castle, near Port Quin
The National Trust-owned Doyden Castle is on a cliff top just outside the hamlet and cove of Port Quin. The gothic “castle” was built in about 1830 by Samuel Symons, a wealthy bon viveur from Wadebridge who wanted a place to entertain friends with nights of feasting, drinking and gambling; there are still big wine bins in the cellar. It features as the doctor’s house in the original Poldark series, which was shown in the UK in 1975-77. Doyden is about four miles from popular beaches.
Where to stay: Two nights’ self-catering at Doyden Castle is from £435 (nationaltrustholidays.org.uk).
Wheal Coates, near St Agnes
Some of the mining sequences were filmed at the dramatic old tin mines at Wheal Coates, just outside the large village of St Agnes on the north coast. The area is overseen by the National Trust, which gives details of a 2.75-mile “White Rocks to St Agnes Beacon Loop” walk on its website, which is graded “easy”. The foundations of Second World War ammunition stores and gun emplacements can still be seen (nationaltrust.org.uk).
Where to stay: A six-night self-catering stay at the comfortable and stylish Old School House in St Agnes is from about £612; for eight (beachretreats.co.uk).
Padstow
Several cliff scenes were filmed just outside Padstow, close to Lellizzick Farmhouse, where there’s a cosy little B&B (see below). There are terrific clifftop walks with sweeping sea views along the South West Coast Path. Lellizzick is about a mile north of Padstow, which has seafood restaurants including Rick Stein’s flagship Seafood Restaurant and Stein’s Fish & Chips (rickstein.com).
Where to stay: Simple but smart B&B doubles at Lellizzick Farmhouse are from £94 (lellizzick.co.uk).
Boconnoc House & Estate, Lostwithiel
Boconnoc House & Estate featured in the original Poldark series (starring Robin Ellis, Angharad Rees and Jill Townsend). It was used as the house of the evil, scheming George Warleggan. The current estate dates back to the 17th century and it had fallen into terrible disrepair by the 1960s, but has since been restored and is famous for its pretty gardens. Lostwithiel is known for its antiques shops (lostwithiel.org.uk).
Where to stay: There are four properties to rent at Boconnoc House, which has B&B doubles from £240 (boconnoc.com)
Poldark, BBC One tomorrow, 9pm