The Romans invented it, the Hungarians love it and in Japan it’s a part of everyday culture, but in the UK spaces for communal bathing, or bath houses, are rarely found. If you’re going by the state of many public swimming pools, it doesn’t sound terribly appealing (hello, verrucas). That said, it looks set to make a comeback with the long-awaited launch of Eynsham Baths, a swanky Roman-inspired spa at Estelle Manor, the hotel (and Oxfordshire outpost of the London private member’s club Maison Estelle) that’s immaculately designed and currently the hottest place to be seen.
Set within the estate’s woodland, Eynsham is a vast 3,000 sq m. Towering pale marble walls encase the five thermal pools, with the tepidarium bathing hall taking centre stage under a vaulted glass ceiling. The concept is rooted on the restorative power of both water and human company: a place to be social and soothed in equal measure.
After putting on an unflattering but practical towelling poncho, you’re invited to take circuits through the various touch points on your “thermal journey” (a three-hour time slot) alongside fellow bathers. This could include a wallow in the tepidarium (the largest communal bathing space), time in the eucalyptus-scented steam room, and dips in and out of the two cold plunge pools (one chilly, one icy). The sauna is spacious, serene and rather unusually resembles a stable, due to the troughs full of hay — which apparently has detoxifying and decongestifying properties — attached to each wall. Lastly, a circular hammam sits under a domed ceiling and marks a meeting point for the communal breathwork sessions that are offered throughout the day. At these you’ll be guided through exercises by one of their pros (expect some hands-on help), before popping outside to a courtyard pool for an invigorating cold plunge, cheered on by your new breathwork buddies.
Although it’s not the only luxury bathhouse in the UK (the Gainsborough Bath Spa offers a similar experience), Estelle Manor’s sets itself apart with a tea lounge-cum-restaurant, featuring 32 hand-blended teas, and a separate treatment area adjoined to the bath house. Here, things have a moody and zen feel, with sizeable private rooms offering “rituals” and massages drawing on Chinese, Indian and Tibetan traditions.
The experience may be unusual to most, but is certainly not uncomfortable. The number of guests allowed at any time is capped at 30, which spread across the many pools, rooms, treatment area and tea lounge means you’re rarely up close and personal with anyone unless you choose to be. And in case you’re wondering if the dress code is in keeping with the roots of communal bathing too, it’s not: bathing suits are mandatory.
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Three more bath houses to visit
Aire Ancient Baths
Hidden off of the Strand, this candlelit sanctuary in the heart of London combines Roman and Turkish bathing rituals to create a communal but calm setting. The “thermal experiences” range from a bath-temperature tepidarium to a muscle-reviving thousand-jet pool and pods in which to take cold plunges, all housed in a subterranean space that was once a wine cellar. Although popular, it doesn’t feel packed, as a nifty system and miked-up staff ensure noise is kept at a minimum and guests are directed to emptier pools. From £115 for 90 minutes’ use of the space, beaire.com
The Gainsborough Bath Spa
Bath is of course home to the most famous Roman baths in the UK, but sadly we’re not allowed to take a dip in the original 2,000-year-old pools. There is an adjoining modern spa, but it takes the communal aspect a little too far for our liking (expect very little space and a lot of snogging).
The Gainsborough, right in the centre of the historic city, is the only hotel with direct access to the natural thermal waters, which are used through Spa Village Bath (diluted to prevent any sulphuric scent). Three pools, saunas and a steam room form a spacious and relaxing area for immersing yourself in bathing rituals, and you can add on a massage (the Omorovicza ones are particularly good). Hotel and spa, from £196 per night, thegainsboroughbathspa.co.uk
Ragdale Hall Spa
Offering perhaps the most thorough thermal experience in the UK, Ragdale Hall’s spa village includes six pools and twelve heat and water experiences, from an icy shower within a candlelit cave to a volcanic salt bath. You can swim outdoors, indoors or on the hotel’s roof (in its infinity pool, which offers incredible views of the Leicestershire countryside), or slip into one of the 50 treatment rooms for a massage, facial or manicure. Spa days from £200 per person, ragdalehall.co.uk
