Ibiza’s little sister is the best kept secret of the Balearic islands
As soon as you get on the ferry from Ibiza to Formentera, a smile starts spreading across your face. The voyage only takes around 30 minutes, but you are winding down even before you set foot on the smallest of the Balearic islands. Framed by idyllic beaches with white sand and glittering water, which softly shifts from the palest aquamarine to the deepest turquoise as it ripples across the bays, Formentera is a sensual paradise where everyday stresses just fall away.
Despite its understandable popularity as a holiday destination, the island is largely undeveloped and more than 70 per cent of the land is protected. There’s just a handful of big hotels and Es Pujols is the only resort – and even that is small and low key. As part of the island’s efforts to keep a sustainable environment, the number of cars is strictly limited and the use of motorbikes and electric vehicles is encouraged. Taking care of the environment, both on land and in the sea, is essential to conserving the natural beauty of the island.
Lots of people prefer to explore on foot or by bike – easy to hire at reasonable prices – which just feels right on an island like this. The landscape of vineyards and olive groves, punctuated by windmills and farmhouses, is mostly flat. It’s scored by tracks shaded by juniper, fig, carob and almond trees and flanked by dry stone walls, while boardwalks around the coast lead you to the more secluded coves.
A handy map marks the 32 green routes that crisscross the island, so planning daily walks or rides over a leisurely breakfast couldn’t be simpler. Although the circuits vary in length and difficulty, none is particularly strenuous – Formentera is only 13 miles long after all. And if you fancy veering down a different path, there is no danger of getting lost, as sooner or later you will emerge at yet another gorgeous beach or back on the main road. You can also download the slow food map, which shows the location of olive oil producers, wineries, markets and farm shops where you can pick up local produce for a picnic.
Trundling through the countryside – no need to race here – there is time to stop off for delicious dips and spot some of the wide variety of birds. More than 200 species fly over the Ses Salines nature reserve, a protected area that stretches from Ibiza to Formentera. This area has Unesco World Heritage status because it contains an underwater seagrass meadow – the largest in the Mediterranean – which absorbs carbon dioxide and creates oxygen and is why the sea is so clean and clear. It also helps protect the beaches from erosion and provides a rich ecosystem, supporting biodiversity and acting as a fish nursery. A project to map the extension of the seagrass to avoid damage from boats is being funded by the Balearic sustainable tourism tax.
Advertisement
Just immerse yourself in the transparent water to discover the rich life below the surface – the excellent conditions mean a lot is visible with just a mask and snorkel, so being able to dive is not necessary. Octopus, scorpion fish, lobster and moray eel are just a few of the species you are likely to see.
It is a good idea to hire a kayak or a paddleboard to get around the coast too. You’ll see that some beaches have bar shacks and others have fancy restaurants, but most have nothing at all. Close to the ferry port at La Savina, Ses Illetes is so blissful that a lot of people venture no farther, but it is an easy stroll to the quieter Llevant. On the other side of the island, families love Cala Saona, where the sea is particularly calm, while Migjorn Beach stretches for four miles down to the tiny cove of Caló des Mort.
With 43 miles of coastline to explore, you make your own discoveries without even trying, finding your own secret patch of sand where you are the only ones floating in the sea. Whether you like yoga on the beach at dawn or cocktails at sundown – or both – it is all about being in the moment. No fuss, no plans, just happy in your own skin.
Slow, fresh and flavourful food the Formentera way
The menu at Can Forn in Sant Ferran features a lot of the traditional dishes of Formentera. Start with the ensalada pagesa, a chunky salad with peix sec – the dried fish you see hanging from branches around the island – then have the fried octopus with red and green peppers.
Advertisement
Book for lunch at the waterside Es Caló in the pretty cove of the same name, order a platter of the freshest local prawns then devour an enormous paella as you gaze at the crystalline Mediterranean.
Right at the end of Migjorn Beach, on the stretch known as Es Copinar, stop off after a bike ride for a burger and a glass of sangria at Chiringuito Bartolo, a tiny shack on stilts with bright blue paintwork.
A dish to look out for in Formentera is lobster cooked with fried eggs, Balearic sobrasada sausage and sliced potatoes – decadent, luxurious and comforting all at the same time. Try it at the famous restaurant Es Molí de Sal on Ses Illetes Beach.
If you want to watch the sun go down with a cold beer and your feet in the sand – all but obligatory in Formentera – just head for Kiosko 62on one of the wilder stretches of Migjorn Beach.
For a taste of the best local produce in smart yet laid-back surroundings, have fish from the barbecue at the Gecko Hotel & Beach Club, then stay for cocktails as you shimmy to the DJ’s smooth bossa nova mix – or live music on Thursdays.
Advertisement
Discover more at formentera.es
Sign up for the Times Travel Newsletter here.