There is nothing more romantic than sailing into a tiny Greek island harbour as the sun is setting behind a distant mountain. The smell of barbecuing meat and herbs wafting in from the harbour side tavernas; descending down the gangplank with the rest of the backpackers, to be greeted by a gaggle of Greek housewives.
Known as ‘Ya-yas’ dressed in their traditional black, their English is basic “You want room?” they ask. And following a Ya-ya through the narrow back streets of an idyllic little Greek village, eventually you are taken up a flight of stairs and shown the most basic of basic rooms. But being tired, thirsty and ready for a second Greek salad of the day, it’s perfect.
But things change and we all get older. The backpack has long since gone. The waist band is expanding the back is stiffening. Fastening ones shoelaces now counts as exercise. But at least the pay packet has improved - to reflect ones maturity. So today we want luxury.
We demand comfort, we want power showers, balconies with views - all the comforts of home, but with an infinity pool.
So on this two-island visit to the Ionians, I’m sailing into the tiny village of Vathy on the island of Meganissi, but not on an overcrowded ferry. No this time, it’s a luxury 45-ft chartered ketch. It all feels very glamourous, very jet-set - though Vathy is no St. Tropez.
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It’s more a fly speck of a port, used mainly by fisherman and fellow yachts people, with a scattering of tavernas, a couple of churches and some holiday villas. Our skipper, Roger - a cheeky-chappy Liverpudlian - manoeuvres ‘Scorpios’ skillfully into a very narrow space between two other boats.
Many an evening on my past trips to the islands, I’ve sat in a harbour-front bar watching yachts, like Scorpios, sail in, and marvelled at the seamanship. Now I’ve experienced it from the other side along with the early evening drinks on deck.
Eventually, our sundowners polished off, we touch down on to dry land and head off to our villas. These were a bracing walk along the quay side, out of the port and up a little incline.
Positioned high up at the mouth of the little harbour, the views are spectacular - across the bay picturesque fishing boats sailing in, yachts sailing out and the Lefkada ferry journeying both ways.
The villas are very modern; all clean lines, with modern paintings on the walls, tiled floors and a neat kitchen with a fridge full of basics for a first night. The attention to detail is impressive, even down to a bunch of fresh flowers on the dining-room table. The villas sleep six, with bedrooms on each of the three floors, so it’s perfect for a family or a group of friends.
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My room, on the top floor, was super cool, with a huge balcony. The shower was the size of a typical village room on my past Greek visits. It had a bath and plumbing of such a high standard that you didn’t need to dispose of your used toilet paper in the usual little bin, which will please the squeamish.
That night we ate lamb chops and a fiery tzatziki with a local very drinkable wine at Porto Vathy Taverna situated on a little pier out into the harbour. Followed by late drinks and loud music with the locals in the Boom Boom bar, which is only a short distance from the villa and the comfort of our beds.
Our trip to Vathy had begun on the much larger island of Lefkada. Though it had started off rather less glamorously in our mountain top villa, with us all sitting around the lounge in our waterproofs, staring into the middle distance, drinking strong black coffee.
Through the patio door we could see the rain bouncing off the 12 metre swimming pool, as low lying clouds rolled in from the mountains like huge puffs of ‘ganja’. But when has a drop of rain spoiled a days holiday for a group of hardy Brits? Rarely. Undeterred, we piled into the 4x4s and headed for the main resort town of Nydri, where we were soon on board the ‘Scorpios’ enjoying more coffee, fresh croissants and pastries, while Skipper Roger gave us a safety briefing and a quick demonstration of how to use the ‘head’ or toilet to us land-lovers.
Waving goodbye to the statue of shipping magnate Aristotle Onassis on the quayside, our first port of call was the island of Skorpios. Though, of course, we couldn’t actually land on the island. As Roger delighted in telling us, “If we did, two very large gents with no necks and hand guns tucked in their belts would very quickly appear in a speed boat.”
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For this was Aristotle Onassis’s personal piece of Greece. Every billionaire’s dream - his own island. Hence the Onassis statue on the Nydri quay, for he brought a lot of work to this area. Even now, when no Onassis has visited the private island in years, there are still 55 staff, who tend the gardens and keep the villa spotless - just in case. The staff accommodation block is theonly buildings that can be seen from the sea.
By the time we had chugged off to another island and into a little bay, the sun had burned off the mist - our weatherproofs were stored and the suntan lotion was applied liberally. Later we all squeezed on to the bridge for a feast of Greek salad, a spicy chickpea salad, mixed vegetables, salamis, dolmades and delicious spinach and cheese pies.
All prepared by Rogers’ partner and second mate, Leslie in a galley the size of a ‘Smeg’ fridge. The afternoon was supposed to be spent - not sleeping after all that food - but actually experiencing the full-on sailing sensation. But when we got out on to the open sea, the wind had died.
I’ve seen more ripples on the Clapham Common boating pond. But - ‘My Captain’ - ever resourceful, and in the spirit of ‘Must keep the kids entertained’ had Leslie throw over a float tied to a bucket. Then with a shout of “Man overboard”, gave me the wheel and instructed me to stir the yacht round in a big circle to come up with the make believe wind on our starboard side so that Leslie could pull the ‘man overboard’ float back on board with a boat hook.
If, however, you are more of a land lover, and would prefer walking boots to deck shoes, then this two island break has much to offer too. When we arrived our greeting pack contains a 1:40.000 touring and hiking map, along with a detailed booklet of 27 different walks on Lefkada and six on Meganissi.
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The booklet’s author, Lida Out, guided us on a walk that began in the high mountain working town of Karia, and lasted about two hours, with manageable climbs and spectacular views from the mountain top. Looking down on to Karia, the plateau beyond and right out to sea. In the hills the aroma of wild herbs, rosemary, oregano and thyme filled the air, while everywhere you looked there were wild flowers, including orchids.
It’s down hill all the way back towards Karia for a well earned coffee in the village square cafe. For lunch, we set off in the 4x4s following some very winding roads, hanging on round incredibly scary hairpin bends on the mountainside, finishing up at the Panorama Taverna, in Athani, for a mezes special.
Then it was more hairpin bends towards the west of the island, to the white pebbled beach of Porto Katsika, for sunbathing and a swim. That night it was all back into the four wheelers and down the mountain side again this time, to the secluded bay of Mikros Gialos, for freshly caught snapper in Zolithros Fish restaurant.
After a relaxing and tasty supper, a gentle stroll back to the villa would have been the perfect end to the evening, but alas even for Sherpa Tensing (check) that would have been quite a hike. Some of the roads need full on concentration, so it’s not the place to drink and drive.
As a non-driver I rely on other people to ferry me everywhere - and being able to drink with every meal, every night, did make me feel a little bit guilty. But one more Metaxa soon cleared my conscious. In a way the Greek islands are one of lives guilty pleasures that we can all share.
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NEED TO KNOW
David Smith travelled with Travelux Greece. The company offers villa holidays in the Greek Ionian Islands and walking holidays in Zagoria in northern Greece. The company can combine any of their holidays for a tailor-made itinerary with many options available ranging from a week in different hotels in Zagoria to a week in a villa in Lefkada or Meganissi or a week’s private yacht charter.
Lefkada and Meganissi
These two small islands are located in the Ionian seas in Greece. Having avoided the trappings of mass tourism, both islands maintain a strong historical background and traditional ways. Travelux has more than 50 villas and apartments with pools.
Prices start from £344pp for one week or £399 per person for two weeks, to include charter flights from Gatwick and Manchester with Monarch Airlines to Preveza and car hire. Accommodation only prices start from £865 per week for a two-bedroom apartment in low season rising to £2,492 per week for a two-bedroom modern villa with sea views, infinity pool and Jacuzzi in high season.
Boat hire is optional - available instead of or in addition to car hire. Boats can be rented daily or weekly. A welcome pack contains detailed maps of the islands and a walking booklet describing a choice of 24 different walks in Lefkada and six different walks in Meganissi.
Travelux also offers over 20 yachts for private charter with or without skipper. Sleeping from four to ten people, all the boats are privately owned and well maintained. The yachts are available in conjunction with a villa whereby boats are moored in a nearby bay for the duration of the holiday. Choices include one-day charter with skipper, a three-day learn to sail course or a weekly charter. Prices start from £850 per week for a four-berth yacht without skipper in low season rising to £3,180 per week for a ten berth yacht with skipper in high season.
When to go
The summers in Lefkada are reliably long and dry with brilliant sunshine and generally calm seas, making it a perfect destination for a self-catering family holiday in a villa or on a yacht. Whilst the spring and the autumn bring cooler temperatures, there is still plenty of sunshine and the conditions are better for walking.
Eating
David Smith also ate at; Stavros Fish Taverna, Sivota, Lefkada - set in a lovely bay, the food is simple and fresh.
In Lefkas town, Ey Zhn Restaurant, in a back street (Filarmonikis) west of the main square. Ey Zhn means ‘Live well’ and you will if you eat in owner and chef Alex’s old converted wooden barn. The night we visited he had fresh tuna, which he cooked very simply with lemon juice and served with steam vegetables. The desert of Semolina tartwas sublime.
On Meganissi, in Spilia Bay, at the Porto Spilia Taverna set on the beach, where you visit the busy kitchen and look at what’s on offer that day. Very atmospheric as the wine follows and the night closes in.