As he revelled in the pomp and pageantry of a state visit, from the marching bands of the ceremonial welcome to the glittering royal feast of the banquet at Buckingham Palace, President Xi might have stopped for a moment to ponder the difference between a Communist dictatorship and a constitutional monarchy.
Better carriages in a monarchy, to be sure. But what they have in common is a way of making sure that the troublesome voices of dissent do nothing to spoil the official celebrations when there are deals to be signed and official bonds to be forged.
On the first day of his visit with his wife, Peng Liyuan, the head of China’s Communist party would have been all but unaware of the protests from Tibetan campaigners as they were drowned out by the massed chants of pro-Chinese government supporters. And if any of his official contacts were so undiplomatic as to raise the vexing questions of steel dumping, or controversial nuclear deals, or human rights, they did so behind closed doors. Instead the day in which David Cameron has invested so much was magnificently choreographed, perfectly staged, and a seamless example of the flummery and ritual that foreign guests expect when Britain rolls out the red carpet — even if they are Communists.
It began with a ceremonial welcome at Horse Guards Parade, where the visitors were formally greeted by the Queen and Duke of Edinburgh, and ended with a state banquet where the Duchess of Cambridge all but stole the show in a glittering tiara.
Earlier, the visitors had been welcomed at the Mandarin Oriental hotel in Knightsbridge by the Prince of Wales — whose views on human rights abuses in Tibet have not made him a friend of China — and the Duchess of Cornwall.
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If Charles, who for reasons that remain still without official explanation was the only one of the Queen’s children not to attend the banquet, harboured any resentment at having to consort with men whose predecessors he once described as “appalling old waxworks”, he did his best to keep his feelings to himself. He entertained the president and his wife to tea at Clarence House and after a lunch at Buckingham Palace was seen talking amicably to the Chinese ambassador, Liu Xiaoming.
At their one-to-one meeting at Clarence House, President Xi even had kind words for Charles, praising his efforts to preserve Chinese culture. “We would like to express our appreciation,” he said through an interpreter.
As the official welcome began, a 41-gun salute was fired in Green Park by the King’s Troop Royal Horse Artillery, and another salute at the Tower of London by the Honourable Artillery Company: muffled noises that could just about be heard on Horse Guards, which was more than could be said for the anti-China protesters.
After shaking hands, the Queen and the duke introduced the couple — the president in a dark suit and blue tie, Mrs Peng in a glamorous white suit and four-inch heels — to a line of VIPs, from dignitaries in uniforms and plumed hats to David Cameron and Theresa May, the home secretary.
Mrs May had thoughtfully chosen to dress almost entirely in red, which is regarded as a highly auspicious colour in Chinese: red hat, red dress, red bag, red shoes and, of course, red lipstick. The Grenadier Guards were also dressed in red, but then again they always are.
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The captain of the honour guard, Major Benjamin Jesty, invited the president to inspect the guard, telling him in his best Mandarin: “The Guard of Honour of 1st Battalion Grenadier Guards is present, formed up and ready for your inspection, sir.”
The president looked inscrutable: his wife seemed tickled by the officer’s language efforts. A Chinese observer said: “It was very good Mandarin. He has practised very well.”
Though the provenance of Mrs Peng’s suit was as yet unknown, it was most likely the work of Ma Ke, her personal designer since 2003 and a graduate of Central Saint Martins in London.
The Chinese, naturally, loved the pageantry. As they were driven off to Buckingham Palace in their carriages and landaus, delighted officials peered out to wave at the television cameras. As the man from the Chinese embassy said, with a broad smile upon his face: “That was the most exciting moment in my diplomatic career.”
Then it was off to the palace for lunch, with the Queen and the president in the Diamond Jubilee State Coach, and the duke and Mrs Peng following behind in the Australian State Coach, the duke diligently pointing out the sights while Mrs Peng smiled gamely. At the palace the couple exchanged gifts, with the president giving the Queen two of his wife’s albums. Mrs Peng, 52, was a famous folk singer with the People’s Liberation Army long before her husband became a well-known politician. Mr Xi also gave the Queen an embroidery, a porcelain dish, a woodcarving and a stamp booklet.
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At the banquet, guests dined on turbot and venison in the palace ballroom and heard the Queen and the president exchange flattering remarks about each other’s great nations.
The Queen wore a white tulle banquet dress in harlequin design, embroidered with white and silver beads and diamante sequins, with a belt made with lace and diamond crystals. It was designed by Angela Kelly, inspired by Norman Hartnell.
The Duchess of Cambridge, who was attending her first state banquet, wore a bespoke red gown by Jenny Packham and the Lotus Flower tiara. It was only the third time she has worn a tiara in public. She borrowed the same tiara from the Queen two years ago to wear to the annual diplomatic reception at Buckingham Palace.
Only two people could have sounded a jarring note. However, Prince Charles was nowhere to be seen and Jeremy Corbyn was safely tucked away halfway down the table where he could not cause any trouble.
Nothing was left to chance. Mr Cameron must have been very pleased — and Mr Xi very impressed.