In the state of Veracruz, which runs along Mexico’s eastern coastline, they cook fish in an almost Mediterranean way: with capers, olives, pine nuts, tomatoes and raisins. This might seem strange but the mystery’s easily solved. When Hern?n Cort?s, the Spanish conquistador, arrived in Mexico in the 16th century he brought many European cooking ideas with him.
While tomatoes originated in the Americas, capers, raisins and olives are decidedly more Mediterranean. In fact, this classic mixture of flavours comes from Sicily.
Sicily is often described as the birthplace of much of today’s European, Middle Eastern and Mexican cookery. It has been a melting pot of ideas for millennia, with travellers coming from the Ottoman and Roman Empires, from North Africa and northern Europe.
Capers, olives and raisins make an intriguing blend. The three ingredients are particularly good in summer; the piquant, acidic capers sharpen the earthy meatiness of the olives and the sweetness of the raisins takes the edge off the other two.
The recipe takes about 15 minutes to prepare and cook. The capers, olives and raisins are warmed together to allow their flavours to mingle and the fish is fried briefly in olive oil and left to cool and marinate in the rest of the ingredients.
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It is a fresh and unusual taste and a joy to eat at a picnic with a ripe, fruity tomato salad and a bottle of chilled dry Riesling.
Although this recipe is good with tuna, I like to cook it with pollack (or lythe), which is not as robust in taste and texture but far more plentiful and sustainable. It is similar in flavour to cod and is one of a collection of fish that are approved for us to eat by the Marine Conservation Society. The society’s small, user-friendly booklet outlines the species that are under threat and should be avoided (such as Atlantic cod), together with those that are less under threat from overfishing, such as line-caught sole and sea bass.
All this is explained on the society’s website, www.fishonline.org .
Nutritionist’s verdict
Tuck in. . . for healthy skin
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A great alternative to quiche and pies on picnics, this delicious fish salad is low in calories, the smallish amount of fat it contains is “good” unsaturated types and it is rich in filling protein. Pollack, like other white fish, gives us the trace mineral iodine which is important for keeping our thyroid gland working well. The fish and olives also provide zinc, a mineral needed for healthy skin and immunity, while the fresh mint is a surprisingly useful provider of the bone-building mineral calcium. Olives and the olive oil give us vitamin E, again for healthy skin as well as hearts.
When served alone between four people you get just 261 calories and 10g of fat. If you are really counting the calories, skip the chunk of bread and tomato and basil salad with dressing: these bring the calories to 554, making a robust main course picnic meal, suitable for kids and active adults. AMANDA URSELL (www.amandaursell.com )