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2003 Excelsior Sauvignon Blanc

Robertson, South Africa

Waitrose and Sainsbury’s, £4.99

South Africa seems to have shaken off its sauvignon admixture scandal that appears to have been confined to a few co-operatives. No matter, this stellar sauvignon is the genuine article from one of the Cape’s oldest winemaking dynasties, dating back to 1697; a punchy, 14-per-cent-alcohol blast of spicy, peapod and green bean-charged fruit, great with watercress soup or a rocket salad.