Khoresh Kadu Halvaee

Khoresh, sometimes spelled Khoresht, refers to an entire classification of stews and braised dishes, and is a cornerstone of Persian cuisine.

The foundations of many Persian stews are saffron, tomatoes, pomegranate, or large quantities of herbs, and they can feature a wide range of vegetables and meats. Khoresh is frequently served with Persian steamed basmati rice, a medley of flatbreads, and side dishes such as yogurt and pickled vegetables.

This recipe celebrates the much-loved butternut squash of Autumn, cooked with tender pieces of chicken and dried plums. The broth is all about simplicity, but still offers a mouthwatering combination of tart lime juice balanced with a touch of sugar, finished off with a splash of bloomed saffron for good measure!

A more traditional recipe would use dried golden Persian plums (Aloo Bokhara). They are not only bright and beautiful in color, but more importantly, they are much more dynamic and flavorful than the traditional plum varieties, which tend to be just sweet. However, they need to be purchased at Persian markets or from online retailers, so in this recipe they have been replaced by the more accessible dried plum variety.

Making Persian Stews

Persian stews don't follow the simple approach of adding all the ingredients at the same time and cooking them together. Instead, there is a defined sequence for adding the ingredients.

• Turmeric is almost always present in stews, particularly when animal protein is involved, and is incorporated early in the process. It adds a gentle golden shade to the dish, and is commonly believed to take away any unpleasant "gaminess" of the meat.
• Salt is added later in the cooking process to avoid toughening the meat. Tough meat is never acceptable in Persian cuisine.
• Darker-colored spices such as black pepper and cinnamon are added later in the cooking process to avoid darkening the color of the broth.
• Saffron is added toward the very final stages of cooking to preserve its color, flavor, and aroma.

Serving Persian Stews

There is also an important concept called “Ja-oftaadan”, which roughly translates to “being set." This term covers methods to develop and highlight a stew’s richness, demonstrating the chef’s skills and knowledge.

• Persian stews are never runny or watery. Of course, the final consistency of the stew is impacted by many factors including the heat level, the size and style of the pan used, and the amount of moisture escaping the pan during cooking. So while it is essential to follow the recipe’s quantities and instructions, it is equally important to know what the final dish should look like. My tip is to imagine a plate filled with cooked rice on one side and stew on the other. While some of the liquid from the stew may be slowly absorbed into the rice, the stew should be thick enough that the rice is never drowned in liquid. If your Khoresh is running on the drier side during cooking, consider adding a little water. Alternatively, if the stew is too watery, increase the flame and partially tilt the lid so that some excess moisture is evaporated. 
• Persian stews are rarely served piping hot fresh off the stovetop. Instead, they are removed from the heat source and allowed to sit for 10 to 15 minutes before being transferred to serving dishes. This resting period allows the cooking oil to gradually collect on the top of the stew, emphasizing its richness.