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WASHINGTON — When the Food and Drug Administration declared that KIND bars — that sticky fusion of fruit, nuts, chocolate, and other treats — couldn’t use the word “healthy” on its wrappers in 2015, the KIND company took offense.

It filed a petition objecting to the standards the agency used when considering fat content and asked that its tasty bars be permitted to be called “healthy,” after all.

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The FDA relented — then went on a mission to redefine what that word actually means.

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