Specialty pizza: Who’s serving Staten Island’s most expensive pie?

STATEN ISLAND, N.Y. — Examining pizzas from different angles brings us to various price points. And the specialty pies are the most fun, as the sky can be the limit with ingredients.

That brings us to the most expensive pies in the borough — before tax.

In the past, Giove’s of New Dorp (currently on vacation through the 18th) has proudly worn the title of “most” for its pies. In this exercise, however, a new place has made the top rung of the ladder.

None have gold leaf or seafood in this particular roundup, although we hear the new Patrizia’s Taverna at The Boulevard in New Dorp is working on a lobster version. So, we’ll see what the autumn brings with chef creations.

In the meantime, we can say from tasting each pie that all are outstanding in their own right and certainly worth a taste. All must be purchased whole — none by the slice.

Perhaps they’re underpriced?

Number 3 at $30:

Seppe — 3 Navy Pier Ct., Stapleton in Urby, 718-727-3773; SeppePizzaBar.com

Michelin acknowledged; the handsome eatery includes a well-curated cocktail program. All specialty pies are $30 with the premium pick of ‘Shroom Thyme with its white pie base and unctuous crust. This is a great value for it mushroom mix alone — especially for mushroom fanatics — with stellar specimens like hen of the woods and maitake. Plus, it has a fierce dose of truffle oil and thyme, which pull it all together beautifully.

Number 2 at $34:

Giove’s — 278 New Dorp Lane, New Dorp; 347-286-0635; Pizzeriagiovestatenisland.com

The Variopinta pie is $34 for a large and starts with the signature, crispy crust. It is built first with stracciatella cheese — that molten inside part of a fresh burrata ball — which lends a super creamy mouthfeel. Then on top comes herbed cheese, garlic, pancetta and thin-sliced zucchini. To finish, the chef (typically Giove himself) pours a drizzle of extra-virgin olive oil on top.

Pizza — A pizza with lots of interesting parts at Breaking Bread —its Siclian Grandma with vodka sauce and tender chicken cutlets served fried and cubed. (Staten Island Advance/Pamela Silvestri)Pamela Silvestri

Number 1 at $40:

Breaking Bread — 27 Seguine Ave., Pleasant Plains, 718-356-8742; BreakingBreadSI.com

Which is the premium pie — Red or White Clam, the Sausage Pie with escarole ‘n’ beans, an arugula-topped pie with prosciutto and truffled cheese or the Hot Sopresatta with Hot Honey? At $35, it is tough to decide which toppings to put on this toothsome, floury crust, but it’s the Chicken Vodka Sicilian that makes the $40 grade. Fresh mozzarella with rich vodka sauce and copious, tender chicken cutlet cubes are all excellent standing on their own, quite delicious cooked all together.

Have feedback? Send it along to silvestri@siadvance.com with “Pizza Summer” in the memo.