If it seems like everyone you know has done a little plumping of their lips, sculpting of their cheeks, or softening of their smile lines, well, that’s because they probably have. According to the American Society for Aesthetic Plastic Surgery, hyaluronic acid fillers were the second most popular nonsurgical procedure in 2018, up 12.2% from the previous year. Best of all, women aren’t acting like it’s a dirty little secret anymore; they’re talking about it with friends and sharing it on social media.
But because the conversations rarely go into specifics, it’s not always clear which of all the different types of fillers on the market work best in certain areas of the face and body. Dermal fillers generally fall into two categories: hyaluronic acid and biostimulatory. Hyaluronic acid–based fillers, like Restylane and Juvéderm, which can hold up to a thousand times their weight in water, create a plumping effect and help to rebuild volume that may have been lost due to aging. Biostimulatory fillers, like Radiesse and Sculptra, work as the “scaffold, or building blocks, for the body to enhance its own collagen production,” explains Dr. Shari Marchbein, a board-certified dermatologist in New York City.
Dermal fillers also come in different weights or thicknesses. A thinner, more flexible formula is better suited for areas of the face that move a lot, like around the eyes or the mouth. A heavier option that builds structure and lifts is better suited for the cheeks or jawline.
Below, a guide to the most popular filler products doctors use for each injection location. Note that many providers use these fillers off label, or in areas that are not officially indicated on the FDA approval for the product. This is not an exhaustive list of products and uses. After a consultation, your board-certified doctor will be able to select the proper filler for your individual needs.
Related: Injectable Bruises? Been There. Here’s How to Handle Them Without Hiding Out.
Cheeks
Commonly used: Juvéderm Voluma XC, Restylane Lyft, Sculptra
Why: Dr. Sabrina Fabi, a dermatologic surgeon in San Diego, says that thicker formulas like these are more “cohesive” in nature so that when you “place [them] along the bone, which is where you inject, it’s going to create a more structured cheekbone.”
Under-eyes
Commonly used: Restylane Silk, Belotero Balance
Why: What we commonly refer to as under-eye bags are actually the fat pads that poke out from the bony structure surrounding the eye, aka the orbital rim. The bags are a common sign of aging, because we lose the collagen and elastin that holds them in place. They can also be genetic.
Fillers can be used along the orbital rim, to help camouflage the bags or to add volume to hollow, sunken under-eyes. “The choice of filler in the under-eye hollows is important because some are too thick or cause too much swelling around the eyes,” says Dr. Marchbein.
Jawline
Commonly used: Juvéderm Voluma XC, Restylane Defyne, Radiesse
Why: Dr. Marchbein has seen an uptick in both men and women looking for stronger jawlines. “This area most often needs a combination approach, using thicker fillers injected along the bone to contour the jawline, Kybella to treat the submental fat deposit, and botulinum toxin for the masseters, to help the jawline appear more slim as well as [for] the platysma bands, to soften neck lines and tighten the angle of the jawline,” she says.
Chin
Commonly used: Juvéderm Voluma XC, Restylane Defyne, Radiesse
Why: “The chin and jawline are the new cheek, and balancing the lower face by defining them are signs of youth and beauty,” Dr. Marchbein says. “A chin is an extension of the jawline—and I commonly treat both at the same time, as many patients do not want to undergo a surgical procedure to place a chin implant for a recessed chin. I use the same deeper fillers I would in the jawline.”
Lips
Commonly used: Juvéderm Ultra XC or Volbella XC, Restylane Silk or Refyne
Why: “I always tell my patients that the types of filler I choose [for] around the lips depends on the frame of the lips,” says Dr. Fabi. “And the frame of the lips is made up of the nasolabial folds, the chin, the corners of the mouth, and the masseter, which is what gives the muscle the lift to your face.” She explains that those with a more prominent nose and good structure around the lips can achieve better projection. In those cases, she likes to use Juvéderm Ultra. But for someone whose facial structure is a bit “thinner,” she prefers Juvéderm Volbella. Dr. Marchbein also likes Restylane Refyne for someone who needs more structure or wants more volume.
Hands
Commonly used: Radiesse, Restylane Lyft
Why: There are currently two FDA-approved fillers for hand rejuvenation: Radiesse and Restylane Lyft. Dr. Fabi explains that what makes the hands look older is the tendons’ becoming more prominent on the back of the hand, so she will fill the spaces in between, to make the veins and tendons less visible. Overall, the hands will look less bony and younger.
Temples
Commonly used: Juvéderm Voluma XC, Radiesse, Restylane Defyne, Sculptra
Why: The loss of volume at the temples can give an aged and drawn look to the face. Filling it, which in turn supports the eyebrows and cheeks, can be important. Dr. Marchbein warns this is an “especially dangerous area of the face, with a high potential complication rate, as the temporal artery, which supplies blood flow to the face and has connecting blood vessels to the brain, crosses over the temple.” She says that the thicker fillers must be placed directly on the bone, for the right results.
Related: 8 Dermatologists Say These Are Must-Dos Before Any Injectables Appointment
Neck
Commonly used: Restylane and Juvéderm products (depending on needs), Sculptra
Why: “Tech neck,” the nickname for the lines and sagging that we’re seeing from always looking down at our phones, is a relatively new phenomenon. Dr. Marchbein likes to take a multimodality approach to treat it. “The neck [has] a thinner, more delicate skin than that of the face. It also has fewer oil glands and is therefore more prone to showing the signs of aging, such as sagging, sunspots, and fine lines,” she explains. “As we age, platysmal bands can develop and can contribute to the appearance of a ‘turkey neck’ under the chin, skin looseness, and deepening of the horizontal neck lines,” Dr. Marchbein says. She says botulinum toxin can be injected into the bands as well as along the jawline, to help sharpen the angle of the jaw. Additionally, thinner hyaluronic acid fillers can be used to fill the horizontal lines that bother so many of us. Diluted Sculptra is also being used in the neck and chest, to lay down a foundation upon which new collagen can build.
Nasolabial folds (smile lines)
Commonly used: Juvéderm Vollure XC, Restylane Refyne
Why: Thinner, more flexible gels work best in this area so you can avoid a lumpy appearance under the skin, says Dr. Marchbein.
