While it's a myth that fashion is the second most polluting industry in the world, 8% of textiles end up in landfills, according to the UN. In a 2018 report, they note that 2,600 gallons of water are required to grow the two pounds of cotton needed to make just one pair of jeans. So, retailers that choose manufacturing and production practices based on low environmental impact and fair labor are on the right side of history as we battle climate change.
But before we get to the brands doing it best these days (and there are some real stunners), there is a ton of jargon when it comes to sustainable fashion. It’s easy to read a label and think hey, this shirt is assembled in the U.S.A. and is made with 60% natural fibers! But when you stop and think about it, what does that really mean? Is the “sustainable” part of "sustainable fashion" even clear?
If something is sustainable, it means that it can be done indefinitely. The idea of sustainable fashion refers to production that could theoretically go on for centuries, with little impact on the environment. And that's just the beginning of the definition weed whacking required to make sense of eco-friendly apparel. Ahead, a few more common terms you'll come across and what they mean:
Artisan (ahr-tuh-zuhn) Made: Somethin' really pretty made by a skilled craftsperson or a company that produces quality ware in small quantities, sometimes by hand.
B-Corp: Short for benefit corporation, it’s a legal structure for a business (think LLC or corporation). B-Corp Certified means the brand has been certified by the third party and non-profit B Lab, using its B Impact Assessment. According to B Lab, a B-Corp “meets the highest standard of verified social and environmental performance, public transparency, and legal accountability to balance profit and purpose.” Additionally, they “use their profits and growth as a means to provide positive impact for their employees, communities, and the environment.” Learn more about the certification process here.
Biodegradable Material: We're talking about a substance that can be decomposed or broken down ASAP. Examples include food scraps, cotton, wool, and wood.
bluesign® Certified Manufacturing: Look to the Switzerland-based bluesign® system, which aims to have the lowest impact on the environment during production. Its certification “guarantees the application of sustainable ingredients in a clean process at which end stands a safely manufactured product,” according to its site.
Fair Labor: Can I get a heck yes for the The Fair Labor Standards Act, which is the right to a minimum wage and "time-and-a-half" overtime pay when people work more than forty hours a week. Some sustainable fashion companies are Fair Labor Association certified, which you can read more about here.
Fair Trade: This refers to artisans and producers in developing countries who are paid fairly and work under healthy working conditions. There is an organization that certifies fair trade companies, Fair Trade Certified™, and you can learn more about them here.
Green America Certified: Green America is a 501(c)3 non-profit formerly known as Co-op America. Its mission is to "harness economic power—the strength of consumers, investors, businesses, and the marketplace—to create a socially just and environmentally sustainable society." They intersect with fashion for their work targeting sweatshops. Read more about their certification process here.
Made in the USA: This one sounds obvious, but a lot of groundwork has to be laid before you can slap this label on something and sell it at Macy’s. That’s because “made in the USA” is protected by the Federal Trade Commission (FTC). To get the honor of being made in the USA, the FTC requires that “all significant parts and processing that go into the product must be of US origin.” So, note that if a label says its "assembled" or "built" in America or “US-made,” such terms fall outside of FTC oversight. It’s also worth noting that many advocacy groups point out that “made in the U.S.A.” isn’t a strong indicator of working conditions. See Unite below for more info.
Natural Dyes: ROYGBIV courtesy of plants and minerals. Most natural dyes are plant-based (think berries, leaves, and wood).
Natural Fibers: Samesies. Threads from plants, animals, or minerals.
Organic Cotton: Like "made in the U.S.A.," our country 'tis of thee actually has pretty strict rules when it comes to an “organic cotton” label. Anything sold domestically with that term means it was grown using using methods and materials that have little impact on the environment, and without the use of toxic pesticides and synthetic fertilizers. Companies can get their organic cotton certified by Global Organic Textile Standards, and you can find out more about that process here.
Unite/Unite Here: A union created from the merger of the Union of Needletrades, Industrial and Textile Employees, and the Hotel Employees and Restaurant Employees International Union. When you see this on a label, it means the garment was made by a union member who can advocate for fair working conditions and pay.
One great way to check on any label you come across: Download Good on You, an app that rates brands based on sustainability. Meantime, here are some of our favorites:
Alternative Apparel
This basics brand stands out because it sells unisex items for adults and kids. Its line of Alternative Eco® clothing is made from a blend of organic and recyclable materials. All of Alternative Apparel's factories adhere to Fair Labor Association guidelines, and it says a majority of its factories are WRAP-certified, too. Because packaging also contributes to waste, when you make an order, it will arrive in an oxo-biodegradable mailer bag.
Athleta
Gap may not be the first to come to mind when you think of sustainable fashion, but because it's where America shops, I respect that Athleta, which is owned by Gap, recently became a B-Corp and announced its goal of producing 60% sustainable materials across all products, and getting to 80% by 2020. The activewear brand is using more recycled polyester (which has diverted 38 million+ water bottles from landfills since 2015) and created an "H2Eco Swim" fabric, which has helped to divert 72,264 kilograms of waste from landfills. And as Athleta's progress may eventually inform production over at Gap, Old Navy, Banana Republic and Intermix, I hope other worldwide retailers will follow this lead.
Marlow Romper
Brooklyn Wide Leg Crop Pant
Classic Cotton Crop Tee
Square Neck Bra Cup Tankini
Cuyana
Cuyana is all about "fewer, better things." Each piece is made with high quality materials from skilled craftspeople in Europe, South America, China, and the U.S. You can read more about its makers here. Many Cuyana items are made with sustainable, plant-based materials like linen and silk. And its Lean Closet project in partnership with ThredUp helps you recycle your clothes when you want to clean out your closet. With every purchase, you’ll get a bag from ThredUp to use when you’re ready. You’ll also get credit toward a future Cuyana purchase, and Cuyana will take a percentage of that purchase and donate to H.E.A.R.T., which helps victims of domestic violence.
Cotton Cashmere Rib Cardigan
Everlane
A lot of sustainable fashion brands focus on cotton basics, so while a bit pricier, Everlane offers quality denim, work dresses, and even shoes! Men get to shop here, too. Everlane is very thoughtful about its manufacturers—each factory is audited for wages, hours, and environment. The company aims to partner with only factories that score 90 and above. The brand is also known for "radical transparency," in that you get to see what everything costs to make. Coming soon: Everlane is on a mission to make the world's lowest impact sneakers.
Organic Cotton Box-Cut Pocket Tee
Cotton–Merino Crew
everlane Linen Short-Sleeve Jumpsuit
Japanese GoWeave Swing-Back Top
Kotn
This B-Corp got its start in 2015 and uses only Egyptian cotton sourced from the Nile Delta. It's super transparent about its factories—you can read all about them here—and offer basics for women and men. The price point is very reasonable, at about $22 and up per item. They also sell thoughtfully-sourced home and apothecary items.
Culotte Trousers
Shirt Dress
Oversized Oxford
90s Sweatshirt
Nisolo
Leather shoes and handbags are the heart of Nisolo. Its craftspeople benefit from "beyond fair wages, healthcare, and a healthy working environment." In fact, "the average salary of Nisolo producers is 27% higher than fair trade wage requirements," according to its site. Shop any item, like the Emma d'Orsay Oxford (a personal favorite), and you're able to see exactly where it was made (in this case, León, Mexico). Nisolo also provides a full "impact report" here.
Lima Slip-on Sandal
Home Isla Slide Sandal
Pact
One thing I love about Pact is that it's for the whole family—you can shop for women, men, kids, and baby. (You can even shop bedding!) Most of its products are basics—t-shirts, everyday dresses, and even underwear for adults and more t-shirts, hoodies, and onesies for the kids. But everything is made with certified 100% organic cotton, and the company is Fair Trade Factory Certified.
Waffle Long Sleeve Henley Shirt
Classic Zip Hoodie
Zip Joggers
Kids' Henley Shirt
Patagonia
Patagonia is like the OG (original) sustainable fashion brand. It started out as a small company making quality apparel for climbers, but today it sells activewear of all sorts and donates 1% of all sales to help grassroots organizations worldwide. New on its menu: recycled rain jackets. The ones you see below are made of 100% recyclable polyester. The t-shirts are part of its Capilene® collection, a Fair Trade Certified line made with UPF 50+ protection. You can read more about Patagonia's dedication to minimizing environmental impact here.
Cross Beta Sports Bra
Women's Barely Baggies™ Shorts
Reversible Extended Break One-Piece Swimsuit
Reformation
Worn by influencers and fashion enthusiasts all over the country, Reformation is beloved for its fresh, feminine styles and sustainable transparency. It's earned a Good rating on Good on You for its commitment to reduce greenhouse gas emissions. On the site, you'll find detailed "report cards" on their environmental practices dating back to 2016. (In 2019, they self-rated highest on climate action (guiding supplies are stores on reducing energy and water use) and packaging (reducing the use of it whenever possible and avoiding plastic).
Doutzen Dress
Tangerine Top
Veronika Dress
Eloise Short
ThredUp
Another way to think about sustainable fashion is reused and thrifted clothing. Thirty two billion garments are produced for the U.S. market alone each year, and a majority ends up in landfills. That's where ThredUp comes in, as the world's largest online thrift store. You can shop gently used items—many with the tags still on!—from designers and other name brands, and they also offer maternity, plus size, and juniors lines. You can shop shoes, jewelry, and handbags, too. ThredUp is so cool that Olivia Wilde even teamed up with the brand on a #ChooseUsed conscious commerce campaign. Shop it here.
Nine West Black Boots
Banana Republic Ivory Striped Dress
J. Crew Casual Trousers
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Devin is the head of content at The Muse and was previously executive editor of Prevention.com. Her work has appeared in Cosmopolitan, The Cut, and SELF.
