Intend is a tiny brand from Freiburg in Germany. Most component brands start small and work up, but Intend made a one-man charge from the outset, producing their own upside-down fork, in addition to the funky stem, and stiffness-increasing headset we review here. Now, they are working on cranks and disc rotors - all designed and engineered in Germany.
In this review, we take a look at two products: the Grace EN 35mm reach and the Stiffmaster headset. The stem in question is a work of art, and the headset is industrial, chunky, and promises to increase the stiffness in your cockpit. Neither of these products are cheap at €149 and €79 respectively, but for a brand who produces high quality and small batches, the MSRPs are not astronomical.
Grace EN Stem Details
• 35mm length
• 31.8mm handlebar diameter
• EFBE "E-Gravity" tested
• 35.5mm stack height
• Max. handlebar rise, 25mm
• Weight: 83g incl. titanium bolts (actual)
• Price: €149 EUR
Stiffmaster Headset Details• 13mm stack height
• Suitable for ZS44 head tubes
• Spacers: 20, 13, 7, 1.5mm
• Weight: 75g (w/o spacers, actual)
• Made in Germany
• Price: €79 EUR
•
intend-bc.com Grace EN Stem Design The Grace EN stem was designed with a light-weight to strength ration in mind. Weighing a measly 83 grams including titanium bolts, the 35mm long stem (for 31.8mm handlebars) is probably the lightest on the market, the second lightest I can find that is designed for aggressive riding is the Renthal Duo at 105g, but I can't be bothered to check all the weights of the stems (I checked eleven in total) out there so let me know in the comments which is the lightest.
All four bolts are 4mm (M5 thread), with two to clamp to the steerer tube and two for the handlebar. The wraparound style of the handlebar clamp is said to improve stiffness and cut down on weight. This does make handlebar installation more difficult and limits bar rise to 25mm. The height limitation became an issue with the bike used for testing, as my bar height was too low with the precut fork steerer. So, if you so plan on purchasing one, make sure you are already happy with your bar height.
Stiffmaster Headset DesignHow did the Stiffmaster come to fruition? It was after a conversation with Intend last year. We were discussing his single and dual-crown forks and I stated that I thought the main difference between riding two types of forks was the steerer stiffness. When swapping between downhill and enduro bikes, regardless of how similar they became in terms of geometry, suspension, tire choice etc, the DH bike with a dual crown fork and direct mount stem was always more accurate and confidence inspiring.
The Stiffmaster headset uses a standard radial bearing commonly found on most headsets, on top of that is an axial needle roller bearing. A sleeve is pressed through the headset cup, both bearings,
and the top cap, which is then clamped to the steerer tube (after preloading the top cap) with a 3mm bolt (M4 thread) – this essentially locks and connects all of the upper headset to the steerer tube. There are then four options of conical spacers in 20, 13, 7, or 1.5mm heights which distribute some force from the stem into the headset.
Performance Intend say that the Stiffmaster can increase stiffness at the grip area of the handlebar by 38% – this is measured 30cm away from the stem centre, using a 27mm stack height with the Stiffmaster versus a 26mm stack height of a standard headset and spacers. The test involved adding 5kg of weight to the bar and measuring the amount of movement/flex on each setup. You can read
Intend's own lab results here.Test One: 31mm Renthal Apex and Stiffmaster headset.
So I set out with grandiose plans to capture the stiffness of the headset on video while riding, but it turns out that it ain't that simple. So, this is not a scientific test, but here you go: I did three tests. The first with a 31mm long Renthal stem and the Stiffmaster headset. The second, was with the Grace EN 35mm stem and Stiffmaster. The third trial was with the Grace stem and a standard top headset cup from Hope. I leaned against a wall and flexed the handlebar with my hands, I also did a car park test of railing imaginary corners and thirdly, I did two laps of my local test track on each setup. The test track is around eight minutes of singletrack, including gnarly rock sections, short sprint climbs and fast corners, it was also SS4 of last year's EWS in Finale.
Test Two: Grace EN 35mm stem and Stiffmaster headset.
Test Three: Grace EN 35mm stem, Hope top headset, with Trickstuff stem spacers.
The first nicety I noticed when swapping components is the bolt on the top of the Stiffmaster clamps to the steerer tube, which means if you are a serial bar/stem/height fiddler (yes, that's me), then you can remove the stem without the fork falling out or losing the headset preload.
Secondly, is the headset actually made a noticeable difference to stiffness in the cockpit. You can feel it when standing and pedaling hard on climbs, and rolling between fast berms. I went for back to back test rides with each setup and there was a noticeable difference in the feel and accuracy of the bike, mostly noticeable in the smaller movements when standing climbing or gentle direction changes. It also gives more confidence when hitting really gnarly sections, where it was somewhat easier to hold a line.
Downsides? At €79 for half a headset, after buying a lower cup you will probably be spending over €100 in total. Preloading the headset is more fiddly because preloading the axial needle roller bearing is a fine line between too loose, and over-tightening and binding and the headset. At correct preload, the axial bearing does add some drag to the headset, like a slightly over-tightened headset, but this is not noticeable when riding. The Stiffmaster will also need more servicing, due to the unsealed axial bearing, (there is an o-ring, which keeps most dirt and water out).
So, is the Stiffmaster something you need to rush out and buy? Probably not. Is it a good idea next time you need a new headset? Yes, if you are looking for subtle improvements in your bike's handling and don't mind some fettling. If you just go out and ride and don't want any extra hassles, then no. The gains are also variable, Intend says the Stiffmaster gives a 38% increase in stiffness at the handlebar with a certain setup, but there are many factors to consider in the real world: head tube length, steerer length, stem height, bar width, rider weight, rider speed and trail type are among them.
Is there an easier way to solve this problem? If you are a heavyweight rider with a long-travel bike and wide bars who thinks steerer stiffness is holding you back, just go for a dual-crown fork and send it. That said, single-crown forks have gone through a number of evolutions. After we had straight 1-1/8" steerers, the next step was a 1.5" straight steerer tube, which must have made a huge difference in stiffness. (I never had the chance to ride a 1.5" steerer). Tapered steerers took over, arguably offering the best of both worlds, with 1.5" at the bottom for strength and 1-1/8" up top for weight saving. Giant had a crack at a new standard back in 2011 with their
OverDrive-2 steerer, which literally got shouted off the stage by journo's crying, "no more new standards!" So, there are other ways to fix this issue, which could resurface in the future. At this moment, the Stiffmaster system is available and works with standard components.
Pinkbike's Take: | You probably don't need a Stiffmaster, but riders looking for marginal gains will notice an improvement in steerer stiffness and accuracy.— Paul Aston |
Here's one with a laser beam, and then you can put it on your frickin' shark when you're done.
www.rosebikes.co.uk/article/tune-spurtreu-stem-alignment-tool/aid:2695938
Using a laser and 95 euros to do what a fishing weight and some string does already for a nickel...
1)the steerer would cost more to manufacture than a round tube
2)the stem would would cost more to manufacture than a round hole
3)both would weigh more for same strength
4)both would be more prone to damage in a crash
There's any number of ways to align your stem perfectly well without any specialised tools.
-Plumb bob
-straight stick against the stanchions
-align the wheel with the frame and use a builders square to align the bars perpendicular
-take front wheel off, push fork dropouts against a flat wall, align bar to wall
etc etc
I'm happy with simple visual alignment.
Just eyeball it.
2hip.com/part_groovetechss.php
Just wait for the righty, than all the problems will be fixed
2- use the other one
3- put dat eye above your bar, in line with the crown or stanchions and centered
4- bump your bar left & right til your bar is parallel to the crown/stanchions
5- squeeze your stem
6- you're done and just saved your wallet
7- open both eyes, it's safer for riding.
Because you're never stiff enough
There’s some people our sport could do without.
The marketing people mostly.
And journalists next.
But the people who can’t get their bars straight, are actually the most important people to keep happily in our sport.
Dick.
Look if you're really struggling to get your bars straight just bring them into one of us guys in a shop and we'll be more than happy to help out. Don't worry that it'll hurt your precious ego a bit, you'll get over it... unless you're too proud to admit that you can't do it, which I assume is the case since you resorted to a petty insult to bolster your point.
Anyway, there are more people for whom rear mechs are an enigma.
So let me get this straight.
You’ve lumped me into a group of people that you think should quit the sport because they aren’t as good as you at getting their bar straight.
But now you’re suggesting that I come into your bike shop so you can do that for me?
After abusing the demographic that you’ve assumed I’m part of.
Maybe you’re attitude is exactly why people would rather buy their shit on the internet than at your shop.
Yes getting your bars/stem straight is very easy.
I merely suggested you give up I didn't tell you to quit.... you don't have to do what I say
You don't have to take it to 'my' shop either... hell the guy at walmart/halfords will also be able to do it for you too (although he/she will probably charge). Your forks will end up backwards but at least your stem will be straight
Also: "and will always be in line 100% of the time." The thing is, "dead straight" looks off to some people. How do you cater for them?
Fails to call it Stiffmeister?!?!?! -3
Other than that, has anyone ever felt this was a problem? I can't imagine they would, but I'm pretty light, so what do I know.
We are not in the velodrome - For example, superbike guys remove bolts from their fork crowns or have crowns designed specifically to introduce flex into the bike when under cornering load. I dont want to ride a bike that pings out of every rut and off every rock as its so stiff the only movement is in the tyre and suspension (and much of that on a vertical plane)
So for all that extra stiffnes for the sake of a few grams.....
E.g. For a fully internal headtube you would need it to be Is52/is52 or zs56/zs56 - that's ok for a DH bike but not sure about a 130mm trail bike?
The truth is - the extra stiffness isn't something 99% of people care about.
Paul, you have very 'personal' views about bike setup and what you want one to ride like but its at odds to much of the general riding public, I wont bash the product as if it works for you then great - it does nobody any harm and doesnt introduce any new standards but I personally dont feel like stiffness of the cockpit is something lacking on modern bikes.
As you briefly mention above - what do you / Intend think about when people run multiple stem spacers - not many will want to run the stem at the exact height this headset dictates and surely most of the gain is lost as soon as you do this.
I dont like flexy stems / cranks but still, who wants to ride a bike that translates every vibration into your hands or pops out of every rut or rock garden because it so stiff it cannot track the terrain?
I am not sure anybody, unless they are huge is genuinely saying a Fox 36 with a sturdy stem and bar and decent wheels is too 'flexy', are they?
This IS a real issue. I have a very similar bike to Paul, a Geometron G13 29er and I'm also a fairly big guy, 6'2 and 14st. Even with a Boost 36 at 150mm travel, there is noticeable disconnect between the inputs at the bar and the bike responding. It sometimes feels like the steering is 'sprung' so the first part of the input at the bars 'winds up' this spring, then it snaps into movement. This is flex, primarily through my awful Mavic wheels, but also through the bars/stems/headset/steerer connections.
So stop complaining if someone tries to make things better.
What was even wrong with it in the first place?
I like the look of the stem too, price is a bit steep though and I don't really want to get new 31.8 bars.
was this product "engineered" or "graphic designed"?
Breaking a stem is super bad.
Paying tons of money for the stem voted most likely to break first is a bad move.
When will you numbskulls realize that.
Oh ya and the early 90’s called they want their non removable face plate back.
Aaaaaand is it possible that letting people pry their stem open to fit their bars in is just asking for trouble?
And what is steering stiffness anyway?
Can’t I get that just by overtightening my headset?
I tried it and it doesn’t feel very good.
I’ve since gone back to non stiff steering and I think it’s the way to go.
If not I would trust the stem for easy XC trails and that's it!
Stem looks dangerous for full on Enduro.
What the hell is going on?
This is a useless product.