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The Plant Doctor: Giant plume ginger a wonderful surprise

Giant plume ginger is of the Cucurma genera and blooms early and produces stalks with foliage that grow to eight feet tall. (Courtesy Tom MacCubbin)
Giant plume ginger is of the Cucurma genera and blooms early and produces stalks with foliage that grow to eight feet tall. (Courtesy Tom MacCubbin)
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Question: We moved into an older home and found this flower opening on a plant that has broad green leaves. What is the plant and the care needed?

Answer: What a wonderful surprise to find the giant plume ginger in bloom. It is of the Cucurma genera and has a relative often called the hidden ginger. Your species blooms early and produces stalks with foliage that grow to eight feet tall.  The hidden ginger is much lower growing. Neither of these gingers are edible. Keep your planting moist and in filtered to full sun. Eventually the cluster of plants is going to spread and need containment. It might be a good plant to share with friends. Fertilize with a slow-release product now and again in early October. The plants die down during late fall and winter and resume growth in early spring when they start to flower. Flowers last several weeks then decline.

Q. I have several southern magnolia trees that are getting tall with branches to the ground. If I cut off some of the lower limbs what can I plant beneath the trees?

Southern magnolias are very attractive with branches to near the ground. (Courtesy Tom MacCubbin)
Southern magnolias are very attractive with branches near the ground. (Courtesy Tom MacCubbin)

A. Reconsider the removal of the lower limbs as southern magnolias are very attractive with branches near the ground.  Also, the root systems are so dense it is hard to grow plants below the limbs. If you do decide to remove some branches simply adding mulch would be a good idea. Otherwise some tough durable plants that could compete with the tree roots include bromeliads, dwarf schefflera Trinette or Asiatic jasmine. All of these need or can tolerate the shade of magnolia foliage. Start these plants a few feet from the trunk where the roots are a bit less congested. Adding shade-tolerant plants in containers would be another option.

Q. Several of my spathiphyllum are filling their containers. Should I give them something larger or divide the plants to make more?

A. Most spathiphyllum, also known as peace lilies, are in bloom now so you might wait a month or more to decide how to handle the plants. If you select a container about two inches in diameter larger, the plants should have adequate room to grow another year and remain attractive. Dividing the plants does give you two or more from each of the spathiphyllum but they are going to need time to recover. Maybe you divide a plant or two and shift the others up into larger containers.  Dividing the plants is not easy as they grow a congested cluster of stems. Use a serrated knife to divide the plants into two or more sections. You are going to cut some plant portions that can be discarded. Then give each new plant a container about two inches larger and fill in around it with potting soil. Keep moist and your new plants should resume growth. Fertilize with a slow-release product for container plantings during the warm months following label instructions.

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Q. Leaves on our corn planting are being shredded by some insect. What might it be and a needed control?

A. Look down in the center of whorls of corn foliage and you might find the fall armyworms. No matter what the name indicates this insect can be present year-round. They seem to hide during the day and feed at night chewing the leaves that may make them appear shredded. Some natural controls may be at work especially if you cannot find these larva stages of a moth. Wasps often fly into to extract the larvae and stuff them in their nests. If no larvae are found, no control is needed. Should you find a few of the armyworms they could be controlled by hand removal. Otherwise, when a spray is needed use a natural insecticide such as a Thurcide BT- or spinosad-containing product found at local independent garden centers. Apply following label instructions.

Q. I have a beautiful gardenia bush that has green leaves and flower buds but none have opened. What should I do to help the plant bloom?

A. Wait a little longer and your gardenia should be in full bloom. Even though the shrub is loaded with plump buds the major flowering season does not begin until late April or May. The best displays can last for a month or more and then many varieties open sporadic flowers through the summer season. Gardenias are high-maintenance plants that like to be moist, have a mulch over their root systems and need three to four feedings a year. If the leaves become yellow even with this good care try an Epsom salts feedings following the label instructions. They are susceptible to scale insects and thrips that can be controlled with natural sprays available from your local garden center.

Q. I was just told by a friend that newspaper can be used as a mulch. How is it best used in the landscape?

A. Actually only the gardening section works — well, maybe that is not totally true. Many gardeners use all portions of the newspaper to prevent weed growth and conserve moisture. Perhaps it’s best to only use a few layers or if you use more poke holes every few feet. Thick layers could keep water from entering the ground and reaching the roots of your plants. Newspaper does decompose rapidly so you may have to replenish this mulch or add a layer of other mulches over top.

Q. I have a crape myrtle tree that is about 20 feet tall and full of new leaves. Will I damage the tree if I trim it heavily now and will it still bloom?

A. Go ahead and whack away. You are not going to keep the crape myrtle from putting on new growth or opening blooms for the summer. Flowering could be delayed by the late pruning but the plants are resilient and should produce lots of color from the numerous sprouts. Could we talk about a lighter trimming that only removes the seed pod-filled ends of branches? Or maybe you could selectively remove limbs back to branch angles or trunks to more naturally reduce tree height. Such conservative pruning helps keep the natural shape and beauty of crape myrtle trees and shrubs.

Tom MacCubbin is an urban horticulturist emeritus with the University of Florida Cooperative Extension Service. Write him: Orlando Sentinel, P.O. Box 2833, Orlando, FL. 32802. Email: TomMac1996@aol.com.