36 Hours in Porto, Portugal

Gazing at the bridges and passing ships on the Douro River is a favorite Porto pastime. For sublime views far from the dense crush of the waterfront walkways, the Jardins do Palácio de Cristal, a manicured 19th-century park, is a relaxed, bucolic alternative and a favorite with locals. In addition to tree-shaded lookout points, the park includes ponds, fountains, lawns, flower beds and rotating art exhibitions in the free, multilevel Galeria Municipal do Porto. As you stroll, keep your ears open for the calls of the park's resident ducks and peacocks.

After decades abroad, cooking alongside international legends (Wolfgang Puck, Ferran Adrià) and helming kitchens of beloved London restaurants (Viajante, Chiltern Firehouse), the chef Nuno Mendes has planted his flag once again in his native land, overseeing the precise neo-Portuguese cuisine at Cozinha das Flores, a year-old restaurant along the pedestrianized Rua das Flores. Try tasty tiny snacks (crunchy sourdough crackers with razor clams), elegant comfort food (Azores squid sliced into pasta-like strands with a zesty stew of chickpeas and cod tripe) and unusual desserts (ice cream, made from and resembling egg yolk, on ribbons of sugary, fried egg-yolk, sprinkled with ham shavings). Note the abstract drawings on the pink-and-green mosaic wall: the Pritzker Prize-winning architect (and Porto-region native) Álvaro Siza Vieira contributed both. Dinner for two costs about 120 euros, or about $130, without drinks.

If you’re keen to avoid thronged streets and blasting music — hallmarks of the Mardi Gras-like Clérigos nightlife district — head east to Bomfim, a laid-back bohemian neighborhood of art galleries and indie boutiques. Sporting red walls and red banquettes, Fiasco is both Porto’s sultriest new cocktail bar and a mecca for vinyl record collectors, thanks to numerous racks of rock, rap, indie, electro, world-beat and other albums for sale. A Lusco Fusco Groove cocktail (Ysabel Regina brandy, Campari, fortified Portuguese wine and coffee) runs you 9 euros. Down the street, Terraplana Café channels an old-time urban saloon (tin ceiling, checkerboard floor) while dispensing original cocktails. The back garden is perfect for a Tropicalia cocktail: ruby port, sparkling rosé and guava-hibiscus syrup, brightened with salt (€11).

Now 90 years old, Mr. Siza, the architect whose touches you spotted at Cozinha das Flores, has been keeping busy. This year, the Serralves Museum — a world-class contemporary art museum that he designed in the 1990s — added a splashy new wing that he also designed. Known as the Álvaro Siza Wing, the jagged white addition displays plans and models from the architect’s long international career, as well as works from the permanent collection, including strange fairy tale-like paintings from Paula Rego and abstract lithographs by Gerhard Richter. An apocalyptic installation by the Thai artist Korakrit Arunanondchai and a haunted playerless piano from the French artist Philippe Parreno are particularly potent. Admission to all buildings and grounds is €24.

Bearded and bespectacled, Joaquim Lucas resembles a scholar as he carefully slices presunto (€65 a kilo) from aged hocks of Alentejo ham. His stand, Charcutaria Princesa, is one of dozens inside Mercado Bolhão, a recently upgraded 19th-century covered food market in the city center that reopened in 2022. The smorgasbord also includes spice dealers, fruit sellers, cheese specialists, wine stands and more. Raw surf-and-turf comes courtesy of Casa das Ostras — which cracks open sea urchin (€5 each) and shucks Algarve oysters (three for €7) — and Talho do Toninho, a butcher stall serving toast slices topped with beef or deer tartare (€1.50). For dessert, Doçaria Portuguesa does a chocolate-rimmed pastel de nata (€2), the classic Portuguese egg tart. For a sit-down meal, several restaurants occupy the upper level. And a short walk south is a new food hall from Time Out, opened in May.

Your Saturday night wardrobe awaits inside Labels of Tomorrow, a two-level international fashion emporium a few blocks north of Livraria Lello in the Cedofeita neighborhood. Portuguese labels take center stage, from button-up blue maritime jackets for men from Sanjo (€149.90) to gauzy takes on 1950s ladies’ bowling shirts (€130) by Mustique. After your fitting-room adventures, a terrace cafe-restaurant and a backyard bar provide refreshment for shopping fatigue — or fuel for another spree. If you prefer threads with history, the nearby Coração Alecrim shop sells vintage clothing — fur coats (€70), sheer paisley dresses (€40) — and its own line of retro-inspired jackets, shirts and more. A Japanese vegetarian cafe, Musubu Porto, is tucked in back.

Gallery district by day, the zone around Rua Miguel Bombarda morphs into a destination for wine lovers as night falls. Occupying an elegantly repurposed 19th-century chapel, Capela Incomum allows acolytes of the grape to sip vintages likes Lapa dos Gaivões (€4.50 a glass) — a smooth red blend from the Alentejo region — in its burgundy-painted lounge or tree-shaded front yard. A block away, Genuíno is a lively Brazilian-owned restaurant and natural-wine bar outfitted with a disco ball, playful wine-themed posters, and vintage tables and chairs. Most wines come from small regional producers, including an agreeably dry, concrete-aged orange wine from Folias de Baco (€5.50 a glass).

By now you have noticed: Old churches beckon from nearly every corner. If you venture inside only one, Igreja de São Francisco pays off in gold — literally. Erected in the medieval period, the church’s soaring stony interior was enriched in the 1700s with talha dourada — elaborately carved and gilded wood. The effect is a dazzling symphony of radiant decorative themes — spiral-twist columns, swirls, floral patterns, coats of arms, cherubs and disembodied faces that burst from every surface. Downstairs, in the crypt, a transparent floor panel reveals a sea of white bones lurking below ground. Admission €10.

Did you know that the Chinese village of Jiahu might have produced the world’s first wine, several millennia before Christ? That Muscat from Alexandria was Cleopatra's favorite wine? That the signing of the Declaration of Independence was celebrated with a toast of Madeira? Educational nuggets fill the Bridge Collection (entry €20), a museum with a staggering array of historical wine information and antique drinking vessels in the WOW entertainment district. Opened in 2020, WOW encompasses several museums — including ones devoted to chocolate, cork and rosé wine — as well as boutiques, a wine school, and numerous restaurants and bars. Root & Vine serves up a classic international brunch — eggs on toast, salmon bagels, waffles — and panoramic views of the city for a final snapshot. Museum admission €20 each or €39 for a day pass valid for all museums.