36 Hours
36 Hours in Amsterdam
![A view of a European canal at night. On the far side of the water, a row of narrow buildings are illuminated and reflected in the dark water.](https://cdn.statically.io/img/static01.nyt.com/images/2023/09/24/multimedia/24-36Hrs-Amsterdam-01-01-cwqt/24-36Hrs-Amsterdam-01-01-cwqt-mobileMasterAt3x-v2.jpg)
Often caricatured as a sex-and-drugs haven, or a kind of continental Las Vegas, Amsterdam was not always an obvious choice for European cultural travel. Its image has undergone a significant transformation in the last decade, with government efforts to shrink its famous red-light district, curb reckless partying and orient visitors to its more honorable attractions. Now it’s a bonafide cultural mecca. In some respects, the city has regrettably lost a bit of its formerly funky edge, and the relentless tide of tourists can make it nearly impossible to book tickets to famous attractions, such as the Anne Frank House or the Van Gogh Museum, or many of the city’s hot restaurants, at the last minute. Still, there are new, off-the-beaten-track treasures to be found, including openings around NDSM, a former shipyard turned artistic hub, as well as glimpses of old Amsterdam where the city’s creative spirit is still brimming.
Recommendations
- The Canal Belt (the Grachtengordel), a central district comprising four canals that form a horseshoe, is the picturesque heart of historic Amsterdam.
- The Rijksmuseum, the Dutch national museum, contains many of the country’s treasures, including works of Rembrandt and Vermeer, and a vast collection of Asian art.
- Boom Chicago, an English-language comedy club on the Rozengracht, offers live improv with up-and-coming comedians in a cabaret-style setting.
- The Straat Museum, in the NDSM district, displays graffiti art and murals painted on site by internationally renowned street artists.
- The Van Gogh Museum contains the world’s largest collection of original paintings and drawings by the beloved Dutch post-Impressionist, as well as biographical information about the artist.
- Paradiso, a former church turned music venue, offers an international line up of pop and rock headliners.
- Royal Concertgebouw is the city’s premier classical music venue with stellar acoustics.
- Jewish Cultural Quarter, the hub of prewar Dutch Jewish life, includes several historic sites.
- Nine Streets (De 9 Straatjes), an area in the trendy Jordaan district, has luxury boutiques and vintage shops, as well as charming bakeries, cafes and restaurants.
- Lindengracht Markt (also called Lindenmarkt) and Noordermarkt are two adjacent Saturday open-air markets, great for farm-fresh produce, flowers, artisanal breads and street food.
- The Frozen Fountain sells fantastical design furniture, lighting and decorative housewares from cutting-edge designers such as Teun Zwets and Ligne Roset.
- Ko, in two neighboring shopfronts, sells chic and fun gifts, as well as shoes and jewelry.
- Things I Like Things I Love started as a pop-up vintage shop; now it has its own in-house clothing brand and also sells jewelry, homewares and gifts, like mugs with breasts.
- De Gouden Reael (by Caron) is a French restaurant in a canal house in the quieter Western Islands.
- Café Loetje, known for its steaks and fries, offers a variety of classically Dutch dishes.
- NEXT, at the NDSM dock, offers great cocktails and small plates for sharing, including vegan-friendly options.
- Fluks & Sons, for its sausage-and-ham sandwiches, and Abu Salie, for its vegetarian sabich, are two excellent street-food options at the Lindengracht Markt.
- Bruno’s is a terrific hole-in-the-wall coffee bar in the Jordaan.
- The Dylan is a 41-room boutique hotel in a historic mansion in the Canal Belt. It also houses the Michelin-starred Restaurant Vinkeles. Rooms start from about 570 euros, or about $619.
- The Ambassade Hotel, also centrally located in the Canal Belt, has hosted many famous visiting literary figures and features a special collection of Dutch art from the postwar avant-garde Cobra movement. Rooms start from 230 euros per night.
- Stayokay Hostel Amsterdam Vondelpark, in the center of the city’s main park, is a budget option near many major attractions. A private room with two beds starts from around 130 euros, while a bed in a shared room starts from about 52 euros.
- For short-term rentals, consider something in the walkable Jordaan district, cultural Museumplein, or quiet, residential Oud-West.
- Bicycles are the prime mode of transport for Amsterdammers; it’s been estimated that there is more than one bike per city inhabitant. Everything in the center is no more than a 15-minute ride apart. Be warned that the bike traffic can be quite intense. Always lock your bike to something, and be careful that you don’t walk in the bike lanes. Bike rental shops are abundant, and many hotels rent or provide them, too. Trams, the Metro and ferries are also reliable, clean and safe. Plan any journey with the 9292 app and check in and out with your debit or credit card or mobile phone. The most reliable local taxi service is TCA.
Itinerary
Friday
![A view of a narrow city canal with calm, greenish water in the daytime. People sit in boats in the middle of the water, and small boats are moored on the banks.](https://cdn.statically.io/img/static01.nyt.com/images/2023/09/24/multimedia/24-36Hrs-Amsterdam-01-03-cwqt/24-36Hrs-Amsterdam-01-03-cwqt-mobileMasterAt3x.jpg)
![A view of a narrow city canal with calm, greenish water in the daytime. People sit in boats in the middle of the water, and small boats are moored on the banks.](https://cdn.statically.io/img/static01.nyt.com/images/2023/09/24/multimedia/24-36Hrs-Amsterdam-01-03-cwqt/24-36Hrs-Amsterdam-01-03-cwqt-mobileMasterAt3x.jpg)
![A sign with uppercased, black text that reads](https://cdn.statically.io/img/static01.nyt.com/images/2023/09/24/multimedia/24-36Hrs-Amsterdam-01-04-cwqt/24-36Hrs-Amsterdam-01-04-cwqt-mobileMasterAt3x.jpg)
![A sign with uppercased, black text that reads](https://cdn.statically.io/img/static01.nyt.com/images/2023/09/24/multimedia/24-36Hrs-Amsterdam-01-04-cwqt/24-36Hrs-Amsterdam-01-04-cwqt-mobileMasterAt3x.jpg)
![A narrow, calm city canal during an overcast day. Both banks are lush with tall greenery. On either side of the canal are rows of narrow houses.](https://cdn.statically.io/img/static01.nyt.com/images/2023/09/24/multimedia/24-36Hrs-Amsterdam-01-02-cwqt/24-36Hrs-Amsterdam-01-02-cwqt-mobileMasterAt3x.jpg)
Saturday
![A red coffee machine with a big, silver handle in a cafe. A hand enters the frame and is operating the machine, pouring an espresso into a glass cup.](https://cdn.statically.io/img/static01.nyt.com/images/2023/09/24/multimedia/24-36Hrs-Amsterdam-01-05-cwqt/24-36Hrs-Amsterdam-01-05-cwqt-mobileMasterAt3x.jpg)
![A red coffee machine with a big, silver handle in a cafe. A hand enters the frame and is operating the machine, pouring an espresso into a glass cup.](https://cdn.statically.io/img/static01.nyt.com/images/2023/09/24/multimedia/24-36Hrs-Amsterdam-01-05-cwqt/24-36Hrs-Amsterdam-01-05-cwqt-mobileMasterAt3x.jpg)
![A hand with red nail polish and silver rings holds a stroopwafel, two thin wafers with syrup in the middle.](https://cdn.statically.io/img/static01.nyt.com/images/2023/09/24/multimedia/24-36Hrs-Amsterdam-01-06-cwqt/24-36Hrs-Amsterdam-01-06-cwqt-mobileMasterAt3x.jpg)
![A hand with red nail polish and silver rings holds a stroopwafel, two thin wafers with syrup in the middle.](https://cdn.statically.io/img/static01.nyt.com/images/2023/09/24/multimedia/24-36Hrs-Amsterdam-01-06-cwqt/24-36Hrs-Amsterdam-01-06-cwqt-mobileMasterAt3x.jpg)
![The exterior of a shop window. Displayed on curved, white shelves are colorful plates, yellow candle holders, lamps and ceramics.](https://cdn.statically.io/img/static01.nyt.com/images/2023/09/24/multimedia/24-36Hrs-Amsterdam-01-07-cwqt/24-36Hrs-Amsterdam-01-07-cwqt-mobileMasterAt3x.jpg)
![The exterior of a shop window. Displayed on curved, white shelves are colorful plates, yellow candle holders, lamps and ceramics.](https://cdn.statically.io/img/static01.nyt.com/images/2023/09/24/multimedia/24-36Hrs-Amsterdam-01-07-cwqt/24-36Hrs-Amsterdam-01-07-cwqt-mobileMasterAt3x.jpg)
![A museum foyer where people are walking and sitting on circular gray seats. A large replication of a Vincent van Gogh self portrait is displayed in the background, against large glass windows.](https://cdn.statically.io/img/static01.nyt.com/images/2023/09/24/multimedia/24-36Hrs-Amsterdam-01-08-cwqt/24-36Hrs-Amsterdam-01-08-cwqt-mobileMasterAt3x.jpg)
![A museum foyer where people are walking and sitting on circular gray seats. A large replication of a Vincent van Gogh self portrait is displayed in the background, against large glass windows.](https://cdn.statically.io/img/static01.nyt.com/images/2023/09/24/multimedia/24-36Hrs-Amsterdam-01-08-cwqt/24-36Hrs-Amsterdam-01-08-cwqt-mobileMasterAt3x.jpg)
![The interior of a restaurant with big glass windows that lets daylight inside. People sit at wooden tables and chairs.](https://cdn.statically.io/img/static01.nyt.com/images/2023/09/24/multimedia/24-36Hrs-Amsterdam-01-09-cwqt/24-36Hrs-Amsterdam-01-09-cwqt-mobileMasterAt3x.jpg)
![The interior of a restaurant with big glass windows that lets daylight inside. People sit at wooden tables and chairs.](https://cdn.statically.io/img/static01.nyt.com/images/2023/09/24/multimedia/24-36Hrs-Amsterdam-01-09-cwqt/24-36Hrs-Amsterdam-01-09-cwqt-mobileMasterAt3x.jpg)
![A park with lush trees and manicured green lawns during the daytime. People walk and cycle along a a wide paved path.](https://cdn.statically.io/img/static01.nyt.com/images/2023/09/24/multimedia/24-36Hrs-Amsterdam-01-10-cwqt/24-36Hrs-Amsterdam-01-10-cwqt-mobileMasterAt3x.jpg)
Sunday
![A view of a harbor in the daytime. A ferry makes its way across the water. A modern, blocky building that appears to have a square cut through the center is visible in the background.](https://cdn.statically.io/img/static01.nyt.com/images/2023/09/24/multimedia/24-36Hrs-Amsterdam-01-pgmh/24-36Hrs-Amsterdam-01-pgmh-mobileMasterAt3x.jpg)
![A view of a harbor in the daytime. A ferry makes its way across the water. A modern, blocky building that appears to have a square cut through the center is visible in the background.](https://cdn.statically.io/img/static01.nyt.com/images/2023/09/24/multimedia/24-36Hrs-Amsterdam-01-pgmh/24-36Hrs-Amsterdam-01-pgmh-mobileMasterAt3x.jpg)