36 Hours
36 Hours in Taipei, Taiwan
![A view over a city skyline as the sky fades into dusky orange and purple. In the foreground are trees and a woman posing on a rock. In the background, behind the skyscrapers, is the outline of mountain ranges.](https://cdn.statically.io/img/static01.nyt.com/images/2023/03/16/multimedia/16-36hours-taipei-vqlh/16-36hours-taipei-vqlh-mobileMasterAt3x-v2.jpg)
Taipei, the Taiwanese capital, is a literal urban jungle — ferns and large elephant ear plants sprout through the crevices of roofs and sidewalks with wild abandon. Hiking trails abound on all sides of this glittering metropolis and tech hub. Taipei is experiencing a quiet renaissance even amid regional tensions. Young artists, chefs and curators are redefining and embracing Taiwanese identity as its own distinct category, with a conscientious pursuit of food and design endemic to the island’s history. With low crime and brightly lit convenience stores everywhere, the city is safe to meander at all hours. A word of advice: Sleep in. With the exception of breakfast shops and wet markets where locals go for their early grocery runs, many stores and coffee shops don’t open until well after 11 a.m.
Recommendations
- Chifeng Street is a fashion-forward shopping street flush with vintage clothing stores and cute coffee shops.
- Dadaocheng is Taipei’s oldest neighborhood and a picturesque place to load up on textiles, dried goods and bamboo crafts.
- Yangmingshan National Park is a grassy mountain range, home to wild hot springs and volcanic peaks.
- Nkụ is a fine-dining restaurant that serves locally sourced cuisine with a Scandinavian flair.
- Sinchao Rice Shoppe offers a rich and indulgent take on fried rice in an Art Deco-inspired space.
- Hermit’s Hut is a peaceful refuge where novices can master the art of meditative tea brewing and sample Taiwan’s wide range of oolong teas.
- Chao serves vegan stir-fries that pair well with ice-cold beer.
- Fridge Bar is a discreet bar behind a sandwich shop where the bartenders skillfully craft cocktails infused with local fruits and flowers.
- Placebo is a quirky cocktail bar with decor reminiscent of an old Chinese apothecary.
- Lao-A-Bei is renowned for its assortment of traditional seafood soups.
- Maji Treats is a store with a wide selection of household tools and artisanal food products.
- Travis Vintage and Used Clothing is a haven for vintage fashion enthusiasts. Among its notable finds: 1960s Taiwanese bomber jackets.
- Ningxia Night Market has a vibrant cluster of open-air food stalls.
- Lin Feng Yi has been selling beautifully woven bamboo baskets for over a century.
- InBlooom Together creates contemporary textiles inspired by a wide range of Taiwanese motifs.
- Qixing Mountain is a dormant volcano and the tallest mountain in Taipei.
- Songshan Cultural and Creative Park is a tobacco-factory-turned-creative hub, with rotating art exhibitions focused on local design.
- Xia Hai City God Temple has statues of more than 600 deities and draws young singles seeking blessings from the god of love.
- National Center of Photography and Images showcases the talents of contemporary photographers in an old Japanese colonial-era building.
- Villa 32, perched on Taipei’s far northern outskirts, is a luxurious resort with therapeutic geothermal baths and lush greenery. It’s a 30-minute drive from the city center. Five suites have hot spring waters piped directly into the rooms. Double rooms start from about 19,400 New Taiwan dollars, or $633.
- Kimpton Da’an is a stylish and centrally located boutique hotel on a hushed residential street right next to a metro stop. It has one of the best Western-style breakfast options in town, and is within easy walking distance to many major attractions. Doubles start from about 8,500 Taiwan dollars.
- For something a bit more quirky, Originn Space in Dadaocheng is a very small inn in a century-old faux baroque-style mansion with vintage furniture. There are only four rooms, starting from 2,880 Taiwan dollars.
- Star Hostel Taipei Main Station is a comfy, central hostel that suits both families and solo travelers. There’s a well-equipped shared kitchen and ample amounts of lounge space. Shared rooms start from 680 Taiwan dollars per person and private rooms start from 2,150 Taiwan dollars.
Itinerary
Friday
![A person, looking at their phone, walks past the window of a clothing store in the daytime. In the window are two mannequins: One mannequin is dressed in a textured white cardigan, a white collared blouse and a mid-length purple skit. The other is wearing a dusty pink long-sleeved dress.](https://cdn.statically.io/img/static01.nyt.com/images/2023/03/16/multimedia/16-36hours-taipei-01-htbl/16-36hours-taipei-01-htbl-mobileMasterAt3x-v2.jpg)
![A person, looking at their phone, walks past the window of a clothing store in the daytime. In the window are two mannequins: One mannequin is dressed in a textured white cardigan, a white collared blouse and a mid-length purple skit. The other is wearing a dusty pink long-sleeved dress.](https://cdn.statically.io/img/static01.nyt.com/images/2023/03/16/multimedia/16-36hours-taipei-01-htbl/16-36hours-taipei-01-htbl-mobileMasterAt3x-v2.jpg)
![A close-up of a glazed blue bowl with thinly sliced rounds of watermelon radish arranged in a pretty display. A hand is sprinkling salt on top.](https://cdn.statically.io/img/static01.nyt.com/images/2023/03/16/multimedia/16-36hours-taipei-02-htbl/16-36hours-taipei-02-htbl-mobileMasterAt3x-v3.jpg)
![A close-up of a glazed blue bowl with thinly sliced rounds of watermelon radish arranged in a pretty display. A hand is sprinkling salt on top.](https://cdn.statically.io/img/static01.nyt.com/images/2023/03/16/multimedia/16-36hours-taipei-02-htbl/16-36hours-taipei-02-htbl-mobileMasterAt3x-v3.jpg)
![A busy street market in the daytime. In the center of the photo are metal tables, where people use chopsticks to eat from metal bowls. There are many signs in Chinese advertising different kinds of food.](https://cdn.statically.io/img/static01.nyt.com/images/2023/03/16/multimedia/16-36hours-taipei-03-htbl/16-36hours-taipei-03-htbl-mobileMasterAt3x-v2.jpg)
Saturday
![A hiker makes their way along a paved mountain trail in the daytime. To their right is a sign displaying written information. Surrounding the hiker are tall grasses, trees and, in the distance, mountain ranges.](https://cdn.statically.io/img/static01.nyt.com/images/2023/03/16/multimedia/16-36hours-taipei-01-kgmf/16-36hours-taipei-01-kgmf-mobileMasterAt3x-v2.jpg)
![A hiker makes their way along a paved mountain trail in the daytime. To their right is a sign displaying written information. Surrounding the hiker are tall grasses, trees and, in the distance, mountain ranges.](https://cdn.statically.io/img/static01.nyt.com/images/2023/03/16/multimedia/16-36hours-taipei-01-kgmf/16-36hours-taipei-01-kgmf-mobileMasterAt3x-v2.jpg)
![A close-up of a hand pouring tea from a white teapot into a matching white cup. Green tendrils from a small plant appear in the foreground from out of frame.](https://cdn.statically.io/img/static01.nyt.com/images/2023/03/16/multimedia/16-36hours-taipei-02-kgmf/16-36hours-taipei-02-kgmf-mobileMasterAt3x-v4.jpg)
![A close-up of a hand pouring tea from a white teapot into a matching white cup. Green tendrils from a small plant appear in the foreground from out of frame.](https://cdn.statically.io/img/static01.nyt.com/images/2023/03/16/multimedia/16-36hours-taipei-02-kgmf/16-36hours-taipei-02-kgmf-mobileMasterAt3x-v4.jpg)
![An array of saucy stir-fried dishes on a table, including a rice dish with greens.](https://cdn.statically.io/img/static01.nyt.com/images/2023/03/16/multimedia/16-36hours-taipei-03-kgmf/16-36hours-taipei-03-kgmf-mobileMasterAt3x.jpg)
![An array of saucy stir-fried dishes on a table, including a rice dish with greens.](https://cdn.statically.io/img/static01.nyt.com/images/2023/03/16/multimedia/16-36hours-taipei-03-kgmf/16-36hours-taipei-03-kgmf-mobileMasterAt3x.jpg)
![A city street where large trees on either side form a thick canopy above the road. In the center of the road, a bicyclist rides towards an intersection where signs in Chinese are visible.](https://cdn.statically.io/img/static01.nyt.com/images/2023/03/16/multimedia/16hours-taipei-fvzh/16hours-taipei-fvzh-mobileMasterAt3x.jpg)
Sunday
![A close-up view of a bowl with blue decoration filled with noodles, chopped herbs, seafood balls, spices and broth.](https://cdn.statically.io/img/static01.nyt.com/images/2023/03/16/multimedia/16-36hours-taipei-01-cmkp/16-36hours-taipei-01-cmkp-mobileMasterAt3x.jpg)
![A close-up view of a bowl with blue decoration filled with noodles, chopped herbs, seafood balls, spices and broth.](https://cdn.statically.io/img/static01.nyt.com/images/2023/03/16/multimedia/16-36hours-taipei-01-cmkp/16-36hours-taipei-01-cmkp-mobileMasterAt3x.jpg)
![A person in a dark gallery views a photography work in a backlit display.](https://cdn.statically.io/img/static01.nyt.com/images/2023/03/16/multimedia/16-36hours-taipei-02-cmkp/16-36hours-taipei-02-cmkp-mobileMasterAt3x.jpg)
![A person in a dark gallery views a photography work in a backlit display.](https://cdn.statically.io/img/static01.nyt.com/images/2023/03/16/multimedia/16-36hours-taipei-02-cmkp/16-36hours-taipei-02-cmkp-mobileMasterAt3x.jpg)