A Bird-watchers Paradise, Opened Up by Colombia’s Peace Deal
Visuals and Text by Federico Rios
June 25, 2024
The lone bird was soon joined in song by other males, spreading their wings in a competitive performance to attract a mate.
In Colombia’s thick jungles, green is the dominant color, but sudden bursts of brilliant red, iridescent blues and multiple shades of yellow flutter through the canopy, too.
The country’s wild spaces are home to about one-fifth of all the world’s avian species, making it a bird-watching wonderland. But this natural bounty was largely hidden away from the world for over 50 years.
The country’s wild spaces are home to about one-fifth of all the world’s avian species, making it a bird-watching wonderland. But this natural bounty was largely hidden away from the world for over 50 years.
An Andean motmot (Momotus aequatorialis), above, and a crested ant-tanager (Habia cristata).
During more than five decades of a brutal internal conflict, large swaths of Colombia’s countryside were the domain of anti-government guerrillas, who kept eager scientists and casual birders at bay.
But in 2016, the country’s main rebel group — the Revolutionary Armed Forces of Colombia, or the FARC — signed a peace agreement with the government, officially ending its 53-year insurgency.
For bird-watchers, the opening up of once off-limit areas has been the fulfillment of a long-held dream.
But in 2016, the country’s main rebel group — the Revolutionary Armed Forces of Colombia, or the FARC — signed a peace agreement with the government, officially ending its 53-year insurgency.
For bird-watchers, the opening up of once off-limit areas has been the fulfillment of a long-held dream.
Mundos Paralelos in Támesis, Colombia, is a private natural reserve and home to some of the country’s native species of birds.
A side effect of this new, relatively peaceful period has been a surge in ecotourism to Colombia, although certain areas remain no-go zones as the government has yet to reassert control everywhere, and organized armed groups and breakaway rebel factions remain a threat.
A Southern Emerald Toucanet (Aulacorhynchus prasinus alvibitta).
Roughly 1,970 bird species live in Colombia, the largest number of any country in the world — with at least six new species discovered in the last decade, according to the Colombian Committee of Ornithological Registry.
The country is also home to some 80 native species of birds found nowhere else on earth.
With remote corners of the country now accessible, birders are looking forward to what they may find in formerly forbidden places.
The country is also home to some 80 native species of birds found nowhere else on earth.
With remote corners of the country now accessible, birders are looking forward to what they may find in formerly forbidden places.
Yellow Eared Parrots (Ognorhynchus icterotis).
May 11th was Global Big Day, an annual event of citizen science organized and promoted by Cornell University during which birders around the world try to find and catalog as many birds species as they can.
That morning, a group of local amateur birdwatchers in Colombia started early, walking in silence inside a forest. They were led by Paulo Pulgarín, a biologist, ornithologist and birdwatcher.
That morning, a group of local amateur birdwatchers in Colombia started early, walking in silence inside a forest. They were led by Paulo Pulgarín, a biologist, ornithologist and birdwatcher.
Mr. Pulgarín with an Azara’s spinetail (Synallaxis azarae), caught in a mist net for study and release, above, and a Green Honeycreeper (Chlorophanes spiza).
During last month's Global Big Day, roughly 1.3 million birders from about 203 countries participated.
Birdwatchers spotted more than 7,700 species of birds around the world, and Colombia, as in many previous years, led the way with 1,526 different species, followed by Perú with 1,428 and Brazil with 1,201.
In the United States, there were 721 species reported by 35,723 birdwatchers.
Birdwatchers spotted more than 7,700 species of birds around the world, and Colombia, as in many previous years, led the way with 1,526 different species, followed by Perú with 1,428 and Brazil with 1,201.
In the United States, there were 721 species reported by 35,723 birdwatchers.
Dedicated birders can spend weeks in remote parts of Colombia, but there are also prime viewing spots just outside some of the country’s largest cities that make for inviting day trips.
The urban chaos of Medellín soon drops away on the 30-minute drive to El Salado Ecological Park, home to many of Colombia’s bird species. Not far away is another prime birding spot, the San Sebastián Ecological Reserve.
A birding tour in Colombia can cost between $150 and $200 a day, including food and transportation.
A birding tour in Colombia can cost between $150 and $200 a day, including food and transportation.
A Colombian chachalaca (Ortalis columbiana).
An Inca jay (Cyanocorax yncas).
Other countries in Latin America, like Costa Rica and Brazil, have long drawn substantial numbers of ecotourists. With the peace deal in Colombia, and the country’s pre-eminent reputation among birders, government officials are hopeful that Colombia can grab a larger share of travelers searching for natural splendor.
A Many-banded aracari (Pteroglossus pluricinctus), above, and a Russet Crowned Warbler (Myiothypis coronate).
“Ten years ago, it was insane to bring foreign tourists to some areas in Colombia,” Mr. Pulgarín said. With the peace deal, he added, “now it is not only possible, but a great door has opened for science and for the country's economy.”
A golden-fronted redstart (Myioborus ornatus).