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Off the Menu

Kraam Dresses in Indigo to Serve Seasonal, Contemporary Thai

Sendo has a new counter for sushi, Nordic fare in a rustic setting at Kabin and more restaurant news.

An array of vibrant Thai dishes is photographed from above on a table.
Kraam will serve a variety of Thai dishes such as, clockwise from top left, prawn satay, shishito, kong aob, beef cheek massaman, chicken curry tart, tom yum talay and grilled sweet corn and papaya salad.Credit... Portraiture By Bia

A sleek white, gold and blue room (kraam means indigo) is the setting for a vibrant, distinctive Thai menu.Instead of the fierce attention to regional cuisines as at beloved Thai spots in Queens, the chef and owner, Pongsathorn Thinnuch, who worked at JoJo and Hutong, and his team of Thai chefs, favor seasonality and contemporary flair. Khao soi curry is made with chicken confit, there are sautéed razor clams with Thai-adjacent chimichurri, and strips of rib-eye heavily strewn with black peppercorns make a stir-fry. The inevitable green papaya salad includes sweet corn and long beans, and you can bet that Giovanni Bellini never tasted his namesake drink with lychee and guava.

254 Fifth Avenue (28th Street), 646-678-4586, kraamnyc.com.

Originally this sushi spot on a budget was to be for stand-up dining only, because that’s supposedly the way it was done when sushi was street food 200 years ago in Edo, now Tokyo, and well into the 20th century. But the chef, Kevin Ngo, who was at Sushi Nakazawa and Sushi Ginza Onodera, changed his mind in favor of comfort. There are 10 seats at a counter for set assortments, $25 to $40. Nigiri à la carte is $3 per piece. Artificial intelligence contributed to the design of the space. (Wednesday)

867 Avenue of the Americas (31st Street), sendo.nyc.

Add this new cocktail bar to the city’s Scandinavian options. Fittingly it opened for Midsummer Day, a revered date on the Nordic calendar. The owner, Alex Tangen, is inspired by time spent as a child in Norwegian hyttes, or cabins, to create the rustic spot serving pickled mackerel, fried fish cakes, beef tartare and Norwegian waffles with caviar. Drinks, created with input from the beverage directors Pamela Wiznitzer and Eloy Pacheco, include vodka, aquavit and gin seasoned with the likes of lingonberries and sea buckthorn. (Wednesday)

300 Spring Street (Hudson Street), 917-261-2144, kabin.nyc.

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Credit...Angela Hau

No need to turn over a plate to discover its maker in this new spot at Bergdorf Goodman. It’s all Ginori, the luxe Italian name in tableware, which is sponsoring the restaurant, a first for the company founded in 1735. The room is lavishly done in Ginori’s Domus and other collections that include textiles, and matches some food, like beetroot risotto, to its plate. Lunch options include lobster salad, eggplant Parmesan and oven-roasted sea bass; aperitivos are served from 4 to 6:30 p.m.

Lower level, Bergdorf Goodman, 754 Fifth Avenue (58th Street), 212-872-8708, bergdorfgoodman.com.

The name of this cafe and wine bar is that of the multicultural Latin Quarter in Panjim, a city in Goa. The partners, Viraj Borkar and Varsha Harlalka, both chefs, and Arjun Gupta, an actor, combine innovation, as with chile cheese toast and tomato soup, and Indian comfort dishes like uttapam pancake with vegetables and chutneys on an all-day menu. It’s served from a counter until midafternoon; waiter service kicks in at 4:30 p.m. A dukaan, or shop, reached through the cafe, sells Indian and South Asian food products and home goods.

28 Jay Street (Plymouth Street), Dumbo, Brooklyn.

This adjunct to the Little Owl in the West Village doubles the space, allowing for reservations and larger parties.

90 Bedford Street (Grove Street), 212-741-4694, thelittleowlnyc.com.

On Wednesdays and Thursdays during July and August there will be a Smorgasburg in Hudson Yards, in partnership with the arts center the Shed.

Hudson Yards, 11 Hudson Boulevard East (11th Avenue), smorgasburg.com.

This new indoor-outdoor restaurant in the Montauk Yacht Club Resort and Marina, whose sibling Ocean Club is on St. Barths, serves local seafood and produce and has a wood-fired grill. The chef, Jarad McCarroll, is a native of South Africa who cooked in London at the Ritz and Chiltern Firehouse.

32 Star Island Road (West Lake Drive), Montauk, N.Y., 631-668-3133, montaukyachtclub.com.

This chef from Delhi, who has spent his career working in India, has now landed in New York to be the new executive chef at Junoon, the elaborate Indian restaurant in the Flatiron district. His food is seasonal and will emphasize clay pot cookery and heirloom recipes like kol mi no patio, a Parsi (Zoroastrian) prawn curry. Trees, as in Tree of Life, informs both food and revised décor.

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Mazen Khoury making sfihas at Dukan Syko.Credit...Jeenah Moon for The New York Times

The pronunciation of Syko might suggest a location in the Bates Motel of Hitchcock fame, but it’s a mash-up of Syria and Korea, at a two-year old Windsor Terrace restaurant. James Kim, a founder whose heritage is South Korean and whose in-laws have Syrian roots, runs the restaurant with family members. They have now added this shop, or dukan (see above, Fountainhas), offering mostly homemade products from both cultures, banchan and mezze together. Kimchi, savory pies, pastries, pita and cured olives are some items made in-house; in the back there’s a kiosk for ordering savory options. Mr. Kim said that for now, most of the pastries are Syrian but Korean additions are coming soon. Assorted cheeses and pantry staples like oils, seaweed, spices and mochi flour are also sold.

214A Prospect Park West (16th Street), Windsor Terrace, Brooklyn, 929-441-4306, dukansykomarketplace.com.

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A correction was made on 
June 25, 2024

Using information from a publicist, an earlier version of this article misspelled the given name of a partner of Fontainhas. He is Arjun Gupta, not Arjan.

How we handle corrections

Florence Fabricant is a food and wine writer. She writes the weekly Front Burner and Off the Menu columns, as well as the Pairings column, which appears alongside the monthly wine reviews. She has also written 12 cookbooks. More about Florence Fabricant

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