A Chic French Cafe Opens in SoHo

Don’t expect baguettes at the newly opened French bakery and cafe Maman — meaning “mother” — in SoHo. Instead, the storefront features a French country menu — homemade focaccia breads, brioches and chickpea galettes — in a cozy atmosphere befitting its name.

The tale of Maman is a homespun love story. In 2011, Elisa Marshall, a wedding and event planner with a passion for baking, met her business partner (and boyfriend) Benjamin Sormonte, a French-born lawyer and partner of the Experimental Group, a hospitality outfit, in Montreal. “He loved to cook, I loved to bake,” Marshall explains. Sormonte adds, “Everything we learned to cook and bake came from our moms.” Three years later, they have reimagined the South of France on quiet Centre Street. The couple recruited their friend, the Michelin-starred chef Armand Arnal (La Chassagnette), to collaborate on seasonal comfort-food creations like quiches (lorraine and zucchini, mint and feta) and fresh farm salads.

A rabbit theme recurs throughout the rustic space, from the pillows to the table vases to the coffee mugs (both Marshall and Sormonte loved stuffed bunnies as children). Framed family photos and Ben’s grandmother’s set of china lend a homespun touch. Even the menu pays homage to friends and kin. Sabby’s Hot Apple Cider is named for Marshall’s childhood friend; Gracie’s Lemon Tart is a nod to Marshall’s grandmother. It’s impossible to miss the handmade blue and white tie-dyed wallpaper from Burkina Faso, West Africa (distributed by the shop’s New York neighbor L’Aviva Home), and sweet textiles created by Candice Kaye. A church bench, 1920s bread machine and farm table were imported from the south of France.

For now, Maman will serve breakfast, lunch and take-out goodies (including dog cookies), though it’s an ideal spot for lingering over coffee, which comes courtesy of Brooklyn’s small-batch roaster Toby’s Estate. There’s a small selection of artisanal provisions such as Ibizan sea salt, Alain Milliat’s Purple Fig Jam, Jose Gourmet’s Portuguese sardine cans dressed in colorful packaging and other treats for the French family pantry.

Armand’s Lemon and Fresh Thyme Madeleines

1 cup flour
3/4 cup sugar
1-1/4 cup butter
4 eggs
2 tablespoons honey
Zest of 2 lemons
8 sprigs, fresh thyme (leaves only), chopped
1 teaspoon baking powder
1 teaspoon salt

1. Melt the butter in a stovetop pan. Filter out the solids to ensure that it’s smooth and liquid.

2. Whisk the egg yolks, sugar and honey together in a bowl.

3. Add the baking powder, salt and flour and slowly stir in the butter. Mix together until smooth.

4. In a separate bowl, beat together the egg whites until they foam and peak. Slowly add to the other bowl.

5. Fold in the lemon zest and fresh thyme.

6. Place mixture into a greased madeleine pan and fill three-quarters full. Place pan in fridge and leave for 2 hours.

7. Preheat the oven to 410 degrees. When the oven is ready, place pan on the center rack.

8. Once the madeleines rise to fill the molds, lower the oven temperature to 350 degrees and leave for 10 minutes or until golden brown.

9. Place the madeleines on a cooling rack and enjoy.